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Chatfield Hollow Main Wall
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Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John MacLean TR. Ryan Richetelli
Page Views: 1,229
Submitted By: Echoinfi on Jun 14, 2009
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Ali going big.

Description 

Forearm Direct aka The Hollow Head Crew. This line starts 15' to climbers right of the Forearm Frenzy flake on some cool slopers and crimps and blasts up to a huge hanging jug in the middle of the wall. Finish straight up on Forearm Frenzy or the various Forearm finishes. This climb is very popular and the stronger locals will often "warm-up" on it in their Guide Tennies.


Location 

Z crack, Forearm Frenzy Wall.


Protection 

Glue-ins and then gear.



Photos of Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Local Mike Russell
Local Mike Russell
Follow the yellow route.
Follow the yellow route.
Ali in perfect fall conditions
Ali in perfect fall conditions
Mike Russel on lead.
Mike Russel on lead.
Comments on Hollow Head Crew/Forearm Direct Add Comment
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By John Biehn
From: Madison, CT
Jun 15, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a X

This was always known as a direct variation to Forearm Frenzy 5.12-'ish... When was the FA? Was it done on TR? I redpointed this on TR in the spring of 2000- I'm sure it had been climbed before that....

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 3, 2011

The route is about 25+ years old and named for the crew of knuckleheads who came bounding through while Whitey (John MacLean) and I were working on the problem. The leader, who looked like he spent all day benchpressing said "We're climbers too. We don't use ropes though" (Think Stallone voice, and no, they weren't boulderers)

By John Biehn
From: Madison, CT
Sep 16, 2011
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a X

Haha.. that is awesome! Its good to know more of the history about this place. Do you know who drew the old topo for this place? I remember having some handed down drawings of this place in '99 or earlier....

By GymRat
May 18, 2012

Led this...could use a bolt or 2.

By mitchy
From: nunya gotdamn business.
Jul 24, 2012

I was out there the other day and there are bolts to the left of the Z crack, and anchor chains at the top. Haven't been there in a few years but someones been having fun with bolts.