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Making the long reach on the technical first crux.
This climb is an arete and face up on the upper tier of Lower Peanuts wall, just right of the routes Wired and Dihedral. It is some distance up and right of Aspenleaf Dihedral. Aspenleaf Dihedral is directly above the route Your Basic Lieback (5.6), or a scramble to the right of Your Basic Lieback (5.Easy).
Go up and past a slanting ledge and belay at a good stance with gear at the bottom of a good dihedral. Move out to the right and clip a bolt on the arete, then move around the corner to the right side and out right to a second bolt before moving up. This is the crux (5.11b). Continue up clipping a few bolts up along the way and heading back to the arete.
Belay & rap from the good bolted anchor up top.
This is a good route with great moves. If I weren't so stuck on multi-pitching, I might give it 3 stars, but like Sunrider, it's just not long enough to completely satisfy me.
Of course, you may want gear to do a good pitch to approach the climb.
|Comments on Forbidden Planet
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Mar 1, 2002
Here is another score for the raven haired power meistress, Andrea Azoff. Forbidden Planet climbs out right to an arete from the belay in the prominent corner marking the upper one third of the Lower Peanuts Wall. You will pick up a bolt just before the arete and one just after stepping around right on to the face. The crux is getting established on the face. From here on up its just pure clean edge climbing, never harder than 5.10, on bullet proof stone. Probably no single move even ticks in at 5.11b. Great line. Two raps to the ground, or walk off to the right towards the Upper Peanuts.
|By Andy Moore|
Aug 2, 2002
The large sidepull hold near the first bolt has broken off, making the start a little harder now. I did a direct start a bit down and to the right of the first bolt. (You'll want to first go up to the left and reach up right to clip the 1st bolt, then come back down to the right to start climbing.) This seemed about 11b or so, although it is probably height-dependent. (I'm 6' tall with a 6' reach.)
|By Brian Milhaupt|
From: Golden, CO
May 18, 2003
I think this route deserves its 11b rating. It's technical and reachy at the beginning.
|By Bill Wright|
May 23, 2003
As with all routes, the rating depends on the strengths or weaknesses of the climber rating it. My guidebook calls this route 11a/b and, for me, it felt solid at 11b because of the burly moves out onto the face. I couldn't do it clean. I lacked the lock-off power and the clock is ticking. I eventually got up the route but used no fewer than five deadpoints. The upper, technical face climbing was exciting, but thankfully not as steep.
A really great, short climb!
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 12, 2003
Very reachy between first and second bolts.
|By Rich Farnham|
Jul 11, 2003
A small flake pulled off the route today in the middle of the crux. Since I couldn't firgure out the way to get through this section clean, I don't know if this was the crux hold or not. The resulting edge that was left is almost exactly the same size as the original and has only a slightly different angle, so I don't think it will change the nature or difficulty of this section too much. These moves felt a lot harder than 11a/b to me (6'5" tall). Guess I need to do some more sport climbing...
|By Clint Locks|
Jul 16, 2003
Hey, Rich. The outer part of that hold popped off on me a few weeks ago. I guess the whole thing's gone now, huh? Bummer! This has to make the route substantially harder. That section was never a piece of cake to begin with! ... What a fun climb, though! The obvious 'approach pitch' is "Your Basic Lieback" 5.6, which is fun, as well...in a different way!
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Jul 27, 2003
Did this climb today. If the hold that broke was where I think it was, it makes the move between bolts 1 and 2 harder for shorter people. At my height (5'10"), I could stretch up to grab the good crimp, and the crux passage through 1 and 2 still felt the same way it did when I first did this route, around a decade ago. Great pitch -- if you can reach that hold!
Aug 22, 2005
When I did it you still needed some gear for the last part of the pitch on the arete above the crux - i.e. it's a mixed route, not a pure sport climb.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2005
For anyone wondering what happened to the description, I asked for a change in my submission from the 10d grade to the 11b grade to reflect the new difficulties associated with the absence of the formerly crux holds. While this may cause some confusion about the cause and nature of the comments that followed, for which I apologize, I thought it better than advertising the climb as a 10d on the front page, which at present would seem a sandbag.
|By Kevin Currigan|
May 11, 2006
You know right where you are when you rap as the bolts' washers have, "Forbidden Planet" stamped on them; pretty classy.
|By David Houston|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 11, 2009
BETA WARNING! A left heel hook got me to the second bolt via the long reach to a positive small edge, and then I traversed out right on decent handholds but very thin feet. Moving up to the next four foot wide edge the edge has various better and worse places to grab it which are not obvious from below, at the right end of this horizontal it is a much more positive handhold which will also help you get on your feet on the right. I couldn't put it together today, but I will be back!
|By Susanna M|
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Sep 23, 2010
Don't be discouraged by these posts, shorter people! I'm just shy of 5'7", and I loved this climb. It suited my strengths, and so I find the 11b grade appropriate. Myself and my boyfriend (5'10"), a stronger/skilled climber, had to work the first moves; a tricky onsight. But I figured out how to use my feet and balance and was then able to hit the those moves consistently. I hopped on again and led it after seconding, and it was my first clean 5.11 Eldo lead (granted- it is a sport climb...).
Go for it, no matter what your height, if you like being persistent with creative footwork and balance (and have a little burl for the next section until it eases into a nice slab). Great for shade in summer heat, too. Have fun!