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 ADVANCED
Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T,TR 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 

Forbidden Planet 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: E. Johnson & A. Azoff, 1987
Fixed Hardware: 5 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,927
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 27, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Making the long reach on the technical first crux.

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is an arete and face up on the upper tier of Lower Peanuts wall, just right of the routes Wired and Dihedral. It is some distance up and right of Aspenleaf Dihedral. Aspenleaf Dihedral is directly above the route Your Basic Lieback (5.6), or a scramble to the right of Your Basic Lieback (5.Easy).

Go up and past a slanting ledge and belay at a good stance with gear at the bottom of a good dihedral. Move out to the right and clip a bolt on the arete, then move around the corner to the right side and out right to a second bolt before moving up. This is the crux (5.11b). Continue up clipping a few bolts up along the way and heading back to the arete.

Belay & rap from the good bolted anchor up top.

This is a good route with great moves. If I weren't so stuck on multi-pitching, I might give it 3 stars, but like Sunrider, it's just not long enough to completely satisfy me.

Protection 

Bolts.

Of course, you may want gear to do a good pitch to approach the climb.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 23, 2010
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Mar 1, 2002

Here is another score for the raven haired power meistress, Andrea Azoff. Forbidden Planet climbs out right to an arete from the belay in the prominent corner marking the upper one third of the Lower Peanuts Wall. You will pick up a bolt just before the arete and one just after stepping around right on to the face. The crux is getting established on the face. From here on up its just pure clean edge climbing, never harder than 5.10, on bullet proof stone. Probably no single move even ticks in at 5.11b. Great line. Two raps to the ground, or walk off to the right towards the Upper Peanuts.
By Andy Moore
Aug 2, 2002

The large sidepull hold near the first bolt has broken off, making the start a little harder now. I did a direct start a bit down and to the right of the first bolt. (You'll want to first go up to the left and reach up right to clip the 1st bolt, then come back down to the right to start climbing.) This seemed about 11b or so, although it is probably height-dependent. (I'm 6' tall with a 6' reach.)
By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
May 18, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I think this route deserves its 11b rating. It's technical and reachy at the beginning.
By Bill Wright
May 23, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

As with all routes, the rating depends on the strengths or weaknesses of the climber rating it. My guidebook calls this route 11a/b and, for me, it felt solid at 11b because of the burly moves out onto the face. I couldn't do it clean. I lacked the lock-off power and the clock is ticking. I eventually got up the route but used no fewer than five deadpoints. The upper, technical face climbing was exciting, but thankfully not as steep.

A really great, short climb!

Bill
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 12, 2003
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Very reachy between first and second bolts.
By Rich Farnham
Jul 11, 2003

A small flake pulled off the route today in the middle of the crux. Since I couldn't firgure out the way to get through this section clean, I don't know if this was the crux hold or not. The resulting edge that was left is almost exactly the same size as the original and has only a slightly different angle, so I don't think it will change the nature or difficulty of this section too much. These moves felt a lot harder than 11a/b to me (6'5" tall). Guess I need to do some more sport climbing...
By Clint Locks
From: Boulder
Jul 16, 2003

Hey, Rich. The outer part of that hold popped off on me a few weeks ago. I guess the whole thing's gone now, huh? Bummer! This has to make the route substantially harder. That section was never a piece of cake to begin with! ... What a fun climb, though! The obvious 'approach pitch' is "Your Basic Lieback" 5.6, which is fun, as well...in a different way!
By Dougald MacDonald
Jul 27, 2003

Did this climb today. If the hold that broke was where I think it was, it makes the move between bolts 1 and 2 harder for shorter people. At my height (5'10"), I could stretch up to grab the good crimp, and the crux passage through 1 and 2 still felt the same way it did when I first did this route, around a decade ago. Great pitch -- if you can reach that hold!
By XOG
Aug 22, 2005

When I did it you still needed some gear for the last part of the pitch on the arete above the crux - i.e. it's a mixed route, not a pure sport climb.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Aug 24, 2005

For anyone wondering what happened to the description, I asked for a change in my submission from the 10d grade to the 11b grade to reflect the new difficulties associated with the absence of the formerly crux holds. While this may cause some confusion about the cause and nature of the comments that followed, for which I apologize, I thought it better than advertising the climb as a 10d on the front page, which at present would seem a sandbag.
By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
May 11, 2006

You know right where you are when you rap as the bolts' washers have, "Forbidden Planet" stamped on them; pretty classy.
By David Houston
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 11, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

BETA WARNING! A left heel hook got me to the second bolt via the long reach to a positive small edge, and then I traversed out right on decent handholds but very thin feet. Moving up to the next four foot wide edge the edge has various better and worse places to grab it which are not obvious from below, at the right end of this horizontal it is a much more positive handhold which will also help you get on your feet on the right. I couldn't put it together today, but I will be back!
By Susanna M
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Sep 23, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Don't be discouraged by these posts, shorter people! I'm just shy of 5'7", and I loved this climb. It suited my strengths, and so I find the 11b grade appropriate. Myself and my boyfriend (5'10"), a stronger/skilled climber, had to work the first moves; a tricky onsight. But I figured out how to use my feet and balance and was then able to hit the those moves consistently. I hopped on again and led it after seconding, and it was my first clean 5.11 Eldo lead (granted- it is a sport climb...).

Go for it, no matter what your height, if you like being persistent with creative footwork and balance (and have a little burl for the next section until it eases into a nice slab). Great for shade in summer heat, too. Have fun!