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Forbidden Peak is a beautiful sight to climbers, with 3 perfect ridges converging towards a pointed summit. This is one of the most popular mountains in the entire Cascades, for good reason. The routes are clean, classic, and the rock quality is good by alpine standards. The surrounding area is splendid and the views from the summit are hard to beat.
Driving directions: From Seattle, take I-5 North. Exit in Burlington for WA 20 East, which becomes the North Cascades Highway. Drive about 50 miles east to Marblemount. Make a right in Marblemount onto Cascade River Road. Drive 21.7 miles (according to the guidebook) on Cascade River Road. There's a small pullout on your left directly opposite Johannesburg Mountain. Park here. If you've gone to the end of the road, you've gone too far.
3 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Forbidden Peak
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Forbidden Peak:
West Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1500'
East Ridge Direct 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches
Featured Route For Forbidden Peak
East Ridge Direct 5.8- 5b 16 VI- VS 4c WA : Northwest Region : ... : Forbidden Peak
A great alpine climb easily accessible (~4-5h from car park). From camp, ascend north towards Forbidden's South Face. Reach a notch in the ridge and go left around the first gendarme. You'll reach a bivy spot where you can leave your boots+crampons,etc.From the bivy spot climb a few pitches of low class 5. Climb up a second gendarme and knife edge ridge. After climbing the third gendarme you'll need to rappel into a narrow notch, there's plenty of tat. The third gendarme can be avoided by climb...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
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