Forbidden Peak  Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular Elevation:  8,815' Page Views:  17,095. Good page? (1 like)    Administrators:  Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman, Tom Erickson Submitted By:  Mike McL on Jun 3, 2009 Make this area a Favorite What's New   Print a Mini-Guide with routes Add Route  Add Photo  Add Comment  Add Event  Sat Sun Mon Tue Wed 63° | 41° 61° | 45° 68° | 41° 66° | 45° 70° | 43°

Nearing the summit of Forbidden Peak.

Description 

Forbidden Peak is a beautiful sight to climbers, with 3 perfect ridges converging towards a pointed summit. This is one of the most popular mountains in the entire Cascades, for good reason. The routes are clean, classic, and the rock quality is good by alpine standards. The surrounding area is splendid and the views from the summit are hard to beat.

The Nelson guide states that "there is no easy way off Forbidden Peak; it is one of the most difficult descents in the range." Come prepared, but don't let this deter you. It's not as bad as it sounds, and it's absolutely worth it.

Forbidden Peak is covered in volume II of Beckey's guide. All 3 ridge routes (West, North, and East Direct) are covered in Volume I of Nelson and Potterfield's Selected Climbs in the Cascades.

Getting There 

Driving directions: From Seattle, take I-5 North. Exit in Burlington for WA 20 East, which becomes the North Cascades Highway. Drive about 50 miles east to Marblemount. Make a right in Marblemount onto Cascade River Road. Drive 21.7 miles (according to the guidebook) on Cascade River Road. There's a small pullout on your left directly opposite Johannesburg Mountain. Park here. If you've gone to the end of the road, you've gone too far.

Forbidden Peak is approached via Boston Basin:

The approach starts directly from the parking pullout. After a short while, the trail climbs very steeply uphill and is very eroded. Stay on the trail, crossing several streams. Continue switchbacking uphill until out of the trees. Boston Basin lies at about 5700' . Campsites and a composting toilet (best crap you'll ever take) are located in Boston Basin. Several options for campsites are available.

The Classics

Featured Route For Forbidden Peak

West Ridge 5.6 Mod. Snow  WA : North Cascades : ... : Forbidden Peak

The West Ridge of Forbidden is included amongst the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. Expect stunning views, solid rock, an unforgettable summit, and fickle weather.From Boston Basin, ascend scree slopes and gullies, aiming for the snowfield and the obvious West Ridge Couloir. Ascend the snowfield to the base of the West Ridge Couloir. In early and mid-season, the best option to gain the ridge itself is to ascend the West Ridge couloir (about 40-45 degree snow). Climb the couloir until it ...[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Photos of Forbidden Peak Slideshow

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Looking back on the approach to Forbidden Peak.	Looking down the North Ridge from the summit.	Almost at the base of the West Ridge Couloir.
At the moat halfway up the couloir, about to climb...	West Ridge Couloir in early August '10; ...	after downclimbing some steep grass, rapping to th...
Boston Glacier on the approach to the North Ridge	Climbing the North Ridge - 1979	Near the top of the N ridge