Nearing the summit of Forbidden Peak.
Forbidden Peak is a beautiful sight to climbers, with 3 perfect ridges converging towards a pointed summit. This is one of the most popular mountains in the entire Cascades, for good reason. The routes are clean, classic, and the rock quality is good by alpine standards. The surrounding area is splendid and the views from the summit are hard to beat.
The Nelson guide states that "there is no easy way off Forbidden Peak; it is one of the most difficult descents in the range." Come prepared, but don't let this deter you. It's not as bad as it sounds, and it's absolutely worth it.
Forbidden Peak is covered in volume II of Beckey's guide. All 3 ridge routes (West, North, and East Direct) are covered in Volume I of Nelson and Potterfield's Selected Climbs in the Cascades.
Driving directions: From Seattle, take I-5 North. Exit in Burlington for WA 20 East, which becomes the North Cascades Highway. Drive about 50 miles east to Marblemount. Make a right in Marblemount onto Cascade River Road. Drive 21.7 miles (according to the guidebook) on Cascade River Road. There's a small pullout on your left directly opposite Johannesburg Mountain. Park here. If you've gone to the end of the road, you've gone too far.
Forbidden Peak is approached via Boston Basin:
The approach starts directly from the parking pullout. After a short while, the trail climbs very steeply uphill and is very eroded. Stay on the trail, crossing several streams. Continue switchbacking uphill until out of the trees. Boston Basin lies at about 5700' . Campsites and a composting toilet (best crap you'll ever take) are located in Boston Basin. Several options for campsites are available.
Weather station 12.3 miles from here
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Forbidden Peak
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Forbidden Peak:
West Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mod. Snow Trad, Snow, Alpine, 1500'
Featured Route For Forbidden Peak
North Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Mod. Snow WA
: Northwest Region
: ... : Forbidden Peak
The North Ridge route on Forbidden requires a somewhat lengthy but scenic and varied approach with nearly 5000ft of elevation and crosses two of the larger glaciers in the area- the Queen Sabe and the Boston. The ridge itself climbs at a very moderate grade with wonderful position. If your looking for solitude this route is for you- with most parties vying for an ascent of the West Ridge or the East Ridge direct its likely you’ll have this route all to yourselves. All things considered the Nor...[more] Browse More Classics in WA
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