This route goes up a large orange wall just off the trail about 100 feet past the Colors of Emotion wall. This is the third route to the left, past No Regrets and Whipping Post. Face climb up the face between two cracks. The climbing starts out easy, and steadily gets harder to crux near the top.
There is no excuse for not rating this 3 stars! There is not a better 12a (or 11d for that matter) in the canyon. It is freaking awesome. I'm not sure about the grade, it's been many years since I climbed it.
By C Miller Administrator Jan 25, 2006 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Great climb with thin edging galore.
By Monty From: Golden, CO May 29, 2008 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Pretty stout crux for 11d, I think 12a is right on. The climb may not be consistent 12 but the crux is definitely a stopper. Great route.
I have not been on this route since the mid-to-late '90s, probably about the time I seemed to "peak" in regards to my sport abilities. I never considered myself a solid 5.12 climber (especially on-sight). It took me several runs on it before I got it clean. Therefore, the 12a rating is/was (back then) probably accurate. I do remember being really proud once I got the sequences clean. "Ah, to be young again"!
If I got on it today, who knows how many tendons would pop!
By NEH May 16, 2011 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Great route! A MUST DO for the canyon! In regards to Bill Green's above comment, the last link on the left chain is cracked through, so don't clip it. Pull another semi-hard move and clip the cold shuts instead. No super tweaky holds on this one (as long as you don't use the mono below the 3rd bolt).
By Alvaro Arnal Administrator From: Aspen, CO Nov 4, 2012 rating: 5.12a7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
Yes, the last quickdraw hangs over a pocket for the crux move. However there's another, better, pocket 3 inches to the left of the pocket that's blocked which is just as easy to reach for in my opinion. I really enjoyed this route, and I think it deserves the 12a rating.