Forbidden Fruit 5.11b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Pete DeLannoy |
| Submitted By: | Brent Kertzman on Jan 23, 2007 |
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Carl bites down hard on Forbidden Fruit, 5.11b. ...
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Description The crux is a sequential series of really neat moves low on the route. Move right onto the flake then back left onto the face. Eventually move left onto the arete near the top and locate the anchors.
Location This route is located on the right side of the first arete encountered as you traverse rightward across the access/belay ledge. There is a belay bolt at the base of the route.
Protection Seven Bolts plus a Set of Closed Cold Shut Anchors Might be wise to stick clip the first bolt
Alison Coin nibbles her way through the beginning ...
| Alison makes her way up the flake on Forbidden Fru...
| Caleb Hanson devours the arete on Forbidden Fruit,...
| Randy commits to a technical move in order to take...
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| Comments on Forbidden Fruit |
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By WAGbag Administrator From: Denver, CO Aug 25, 2011
| This would be a lot better if it actually climbed the arete like it would appear it should (given bolt line). It actually climbs right of the bolt line away from the arete all the way until the end, where you'll find two fun moves. |
By Brent Larsen From: Spearfish, SD Sep 17, 2011
| I don't care what anyone says, this is a four star canyon classic! It has a level of technical difficulty and a headiness factor that are a notch above most 5.11b's in Spearfish Canyon. It is worth doing because it is old school. Within this climb the developer created a test piece of art, which has a different quality when compared to other Black Hills sport climbs. It is one of many climbs at this grade that I have yet to red point, but this one is just that much harder for some strange reason that I can't explain. I have been working it consistantly for three seasons, and it is still shutting me down while many other 5.11b climbs went down in just two sessions, that alone speaks volumes of it. A three star route in the new guidebook. Get on this climb if you want to know what 5.11b feels in an old school way. |
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