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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Farewell to Poodles 
Easy As Pi 
For Whom the Poodle Tolls 
Fusion Without Integrity 
Head Over Heals 
Mind Over Matter 
Mind over Splatter 
Old Man and the Poodle, The 
Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom 
Route 182 
Space Walk 
Suspect Rock 

For Whom the Poodle Tolls 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Randy Vogel, Darryl Nakahira, Marjorie Shovlin & Maria Cranor, 11/82
Page Views: 609
Submitted By: M.Morley on Sep 27, 2003
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About 1/5 way up


Left of Head Over Heals lie two 5.9 "Poodle" routes, A Farewell To Poodles and For Whom The Poodle Tolls. FWTPT is a fun route; a little grainy, but worth doing if in the area. Bartlett gives it a "PG" rating, but I felt it protected fine. The descent down gully to climber's left involves a move or two of 5.3 downclimbing around a large boulder.


Standard rack.

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For Whom the Poodle Tolls
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By Randy
Oct 29, 2003

Don't forget the 5.8 Poodle route to the left of FWTPT, The Old Man and The Poodle.

By Woody Stark
Apr 23, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

We did this today, and both of us felt it was a solid 10a. Be that as it may, it was a very good route with excellent pro. Also, a set of slings around a good sized knob have been placed for a secure rap.

By BCramer
From: Prescott
Oct 15, 2009

Solid 5.9 line.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 26, 2013

I'm sure in some other decade I've done this route before. But much like Madonna, this last visit "feels like the very first time".

Enjoyable enough but the pro low is concerning enough I didn't lead it and was glad for that. Found A Farewell to Poodles neighbor to the right way more fun and easier to protect low. Absolutely both worth doing while in the area but heads up for your average 5.9 leader.