|Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)
Left of Head Over Heals lie two 5.9 "Poodle" routes, A Farewell To Poodles and For Whom The Poodle Tolls. FWTPT is a fun route; a little grainy, but worth doing if in the area. Bartlett gives it a "PG" rating, but I felt it protected fine. The descent down gully to climber's left involves a move or two of 5.3 downclimbing around a large boulder.
BETA PHOTO: For Whom the Poodle Tolls
Oct 29, 2003
Don't forget the 5.8 Poodle route to the left of FWTPT, The Old Man and The Poodle.
|By Woody Stark|
Apr 23, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
We did this today, and both of us felt it was a solid 10a. Be that as it may, it was a very good route with excellent pro. Also, a set of slings around a good sized knob have been placed for a secure rap.
Oct 15, 2009
Solid 5.9 line.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 26, 2013
I'm sure in some other decade I've done this route before. But much like Madonna, this last visit "feels like the very first time".
Enjoyable enough but the pro low is concerning enough I didn't lead it and was glad for that. Found A Farewell to Poodles neighbor to the right way more fun and easier to protect low. Absolutely both worth doing while in the area but heads up for your average 5.9 leader.