For Whom the Bells Toll 

Nice route. Felt Easier than grade on most pitches. Hike was more strenuous, heck self checkout at Albertsons was more strenuous..

Had a lot of trouble finding anything that looked like a trail. No game trails, just an abrupt end after the ten minute hike past the bridge. It looks like a really fun climb (for the want to get alpine experience + some trad and sport, beginner climber like myself) but could probably use a lot more travel. We spent 2 hours hiking and had to bail on the route because we couldn't find a reasonable way (even after a substantial amount of bush whacking) to get to the darn thing.

Travis, this is a difficult route to find. Tristan himself guided me to the start of the route, (and the route itself), and it does require quite a bit of bush wacking, but I don't remember it being too bad. After heading generally North-North-East, (if my memory serves), you'll find the granite cliffs, and you simply skirt the edge of them Westward until you find the start. Along the way, you may find an abandoned golf club that marks the start of one of the 5.11 climbs.

I should also add that when I originally went to look for this route, (without Tristan's help), I ended up crossing what I thought was the right bridge, (but was the wrong bridge), and bush-wacked for about an hour before giving up. It's not the first bridge you come to that you cross. It's a bridge about an hour or maybe 2 up the trail from the start. Did Tristan post a picture of the right bridge?

I found the approach to not be too hard to find. Cross the creek just before the waterfall at the rickety three log bridge. Hike up the trail for roughly ten minutes. Once you cross another small creek/seep you'll immediately be in a little meadow area with some ferns. Less than 5 minutes after you pass through that area start looking for a very faded trail on the left. If you keep a careful eye open you'll see a small boulder with a piton drilled into the top of it. That's the trail we took up to the base of East Waterfall. From there just follow the edge of the rock until the faint trail cuts west across the gully near the pines.

The route has cleaned up surprisingly well since it's only a few years old and I'm pretty sure we were the 16th ascent based on the register (and the first of 2013). Still plenty of gravel to be found though. Some additional quicklinks and rap rings are needed at almost every station if the next party up feels like hauling up some extra metal.

A 70M rope is an absolute requirement to rappel the route. Rapping down the 2nd and 3rd pitches there are 35m rappels. On these rappels the rope is actually a couple feet short and it's basically necessary to rap off the end of the rope to reach the next station. Terrible planning by the FA, there was no reason for those rappels to be so difficult. Also watch out for the rap off the summit, the rope can swing into a pinch right of the route and get stuck easily.

I brought a decent rack and placed almost none of it. It's only necessary for the first two pitches where it's hard not to run it out anyway. I placed a #1 Camalot on the first and second pitch and a #2 on the first pitch. That's it. Almost no placements for nuts, leave them at home. Bring lots of slings and probably 8 quickdraws or so.

It's also quite possible to just not even bring any trad gear and just skip the first two pitchs (or sling bushes and run it out a bit on very easy terrain). The third pitch, where the climbing gets more interesting can be accessed by hiking up the loose gully and cutting left to the dead tree with slings. It's also easy to avoid rapping down pitches one and two by scrambling over to the gully from the dead tree on the way down.

This climb felt kind of like South Six Shooter in Indian Creek. A long approach with a two star climb rewards you with a 4 star summit.

How long is the hike into the route?

It is about 2h 15min from the car to the base of FWTBT with a few small breaks.