For Whom the Bell Tolls
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|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11a/b [details]|
|FA: ||Cindy Tolle and Pete DeLannoy, Sept. 17, 1990|
|Submitted By: ||AhK on Oct 24, 2011|
For Whom the Bell Tolls follows the red line.
Follow bolts in the beautiful water groove on the SE face. Consistent climbing on great rock with great protection leads to a small bulge and the crux near the last bolt. The last 30 feet is slightly easier, but quite thin and unprotected.
Cindy Tolle and Pete DeLannoy took turns drilling bolts on lead with a Bosch. After drilling the last bolt, Pete thought that there would be a bomber hand hold above from which he could drill an additional bolt, which turned out to be false.
A great view of climbers on this route can be had from the summit of the Hitching Post or the Thimble.
Start at the bolted anchor on the ledge above the Walt Bailey Chimney. Either jump the guard rail and thrash up the chimney with poor protection, or rap to the ledge from the Every Which Way But Loose anchor.
6 or 7 bolts.
Descent can be made off either side of the Bell Tower with one rope, but watch the ends if descending N side.
The Bell Tower and the Needle's Eye from the tunne...
|Comments on For Whom the Bell Tolls
|By Tim McCabe|
Oct 26, 2011
rating: 5.11b PG13
I was living in the area when this route went in seems like I got the 3rd ascent. I remember something about why there wasn't a bolt after the crux. Not sure anymore but I don't remember the run out being that bad by Needles standards.
Nov 16, 2011
Tim, you're probably right. The last 30 feet is by no means atypical for the Needles, with the exception that its not a jug haul. There is potential for a BIG ride and also a small possibility of hitting the belay ledge if you fell near the final anchors. This was my reasoning for the R rating.
If you can get past the final bolt, there's very little chance of falling after it. Most climbers who are familiar with the area would probably agree that PG-13 is a fair rating.
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Feb 11, 2012
Congratulations to Pete and Cindy for a ground-up ascent in (updated) classic Needle's style!
|By Chris Hirsch|
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.11b PG13
Consistent climbing, yes. Great rock, no.