For Turkeys Only 5.11d
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | Jim Dunn, Earl Wiggins (complete w/Ed Webster) |
| Submitted By: | Bill Duncan on Jun 12, 2009 |
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Description This route caught the eye of Jimmy Dunn in 1975. Some say it's one of the hardest offwidths out there. Comparable to some of the most difficult of Vedauwoo's and anything else in the Platte. Some would say the grade might be a sandbag.
Head up into the obvious overhanging roof, and start sorting it out. Rumor has it that there is a micro edge on the face that makes this possible. Stuff yourself in there and at the right moment, pivot out on to that edge and climb for all your worth.
Remember, the first rule of offwidth: don't offwidth.
Location For Turkeys Only is the route to the left of the classic Drumstick Direct. Here's a link to the photo, it's the route immediately to the left of Pat:
www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/south_platte/turkey_rocks>>>
Protection Bring all of your wide gear. A few smaller pieces might come in handy too. Don't forget the barf bag.
| Comments on For Turkeys Only |
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By slim
Jun 12, 2009
| i think i remember pete gallagher saying something about inverted T-stacks. i know several people who have flashed/onsighted lucille and got destroyed by this thing. if i remember correctly matt lisenby onsighted it though. he's remotely tough though, so i don't think the route will get downgraded any time soon... |
By Stewart M. Green
Jun 12, 2009
| I just talked to Jim Dunn about the FA of For Turkey's Only. Jim said he did the first ascent followed by Earl Wiggins; a couple days later he did it again and was followed by Bryan Becker; and just after that he led it again and Ed Webster followed it. He said each time though he had to pull each of the three climbers up the roof pitch! He also said each time he led the roof with only a #9 Hex placed endwise. The complete ascent of the route's 3 pitches to the top of the Tail was with Ed Webster. He placed a 1/4-inch bolt but couldn't free-climb the moves there that time, so Ed led past it using the bolt for aid. All that he says, "is the absolute truth." |
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Jun 12, 2009
| I always thought Steve and Leonard did the first non Dunn ascent. |
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