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 ADVANCED
Lower Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Boy and His ArÍte T 
Beer Can Direct S 
Black Magic T 
Black Opal T 
Black Pyre T 
Blue Wind T 
Crown Royal T 
Farce T 
For Real Crack T 
Groove, The T 
Hemorroids in Flight T 
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 
Novitiate's Nightmare T 
Pillar of Society S 
Sinbad-Herbert T 
Surrealistic Pillar T 
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 
Wild Turkey T 

For Real Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,790
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Oct 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starts on the left hand wall of the crud gully to the right of Surrealistic that splits the lower buttress in two. Start up the face which leads directly into some interesting chimneys. Follow the chimneys until you exit on a sloping ramp and move out to the left into another gully. Belay here and finish the route with an easy pitch to the top.

Protection 

Cams .5"-3"


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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 11, 2006

Be advised, I didn't find the belay to be the most solid after that traverse left. Fortunately, it is on a decent sized ledge. Unfortunately, the granite there is decomposing. I think I got a cam and slung flakes, and wedged my ass in good. Which was good, because my follower actually took a fall! Very unexpected, from a solid climber on a 5.7. We finished the route via the trembling traverse onto surrealistic pillar rather than up the decomposing gully.
By Evan Wisheropp
May 2, 2015

We did it in two pitches, and I remember I belayed in a little recess at the top of the wide crack feature below chimney two exits; an easy left chimney that would meet up with the gulley, or straight up 25' of chimney that deposits you on a very loose face full of expanding and exfoliating flakes. I went from there over to the ledge caughtinside mentioned, and then up to the top. I belayed on that ledge omce after doing the Surrealistic Pillar variation, I can agree with you caughtinside, it's Brett decomposed.

The first pitch is a ton of fun though.
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