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 ADVANCED
Lower Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Boy and His ArÍte T 
Beer Can Direct S 
Black Magic T 
Black Opal T 
Black Pyre T 
Blue Wind T 
Crown Royal T 
Farce T 
For Real Crack T 
Groove, The T 
Hemorroids in Flight T 
Jailbreak (variation) T,TR 
Novitiate's Nightmare T 
Pillar of Society S 
Sinbad-Herbert T 
Surrealistic Pillar T 
Surrealistic Pillar Direct T 
Unknown TR 
Wild Turkey T 

For Real Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,624
Submitted By: Salamanizer on Oct 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Starts on the left hand wall of the crud gully to the right of Surrealistic that splits the lower buttress in two. Start up the face which leads directly into some interesting chimneys. Follow the chimneys until you exit on a sloaping ramp and move out to the left into another gully. Belay here and finish the route with an easy pitch to the top.

Protection 

Cams .5"-3"


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By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 11, 2006

Be advised, I didn't find the belay to be the most solid after that traverse left. Fortunately, it is on a decent sized ledge. Unfortunately, the granite there is decomposing. I think I got a cam and slung flakes, and wedged my ass in good. Which was good, because my follower actually took a fall! Very unexpected, from a solid climber on a 5.7. We finished the route via the trembling traverse onto surrealistic pillar rather than up the decomposing gully.