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Climb easy face to a horizontal dike. Follow the dike left using heel hooks and hand holds to a strenuous mantle. Continue up past two bolts on thin face to the top.
I believe [the "R" rating] is justified because if you come off while doing the difficult mantle just under the 5th bolt (10 feet directly left of the 4th bolt) you will take a nasty pendulum and the rope may hit a sharp edge on a portion of the discontinuous dike.
6 bolts (all 3/8"), pro to 3" for anchors.
All 6 bolts were replaced 2/11/01 by the ASCA.
Located directly across from the Rubicon Formation.
BETA PHOTO: For Peter, 5,11c
20 years later, Vaino is still climbing hard! Phot...
Photo by Blitzo.
|By C Miller|
Apr 4, 2003
This climb was also known as "Crystal City Underground".
Feb 10, 2008
This climb should not be missed, but beware the fall from the upper face: I think it's possible to land on the dike where it sticks out the most. The dike is also sharp in places.
Jan 25, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Watched a climber pitch from the mantle around 89/90. All air with a fair amount of pendulum action before his belayer finally lowered him off.
We went next and I distinctly remember a period of contemplation before initiating the facey exit (as per Drewsky - not a good fall) , but I wouldn't underestimate that mantle either - powerful and teetery as I recall.
Excellent route for a solid leader at the grade.
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 2, 2010
For Peter Herbine, killed by drunk driver on the way to climb at JT on Hwy 395 near Atolia. Laurie Leach and Mike Dorey were both ejected from the VW bus and survived, late 1980's.