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For fun----how many routes have you done at Indian Creek?
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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Mar 21, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
Just for fun.........

Looked through the IC guidebook last night and decided to count the number of routes I have done there, and of course I couldn't help but wonder how many routes the average (and the not so average) IC climber has done.

Repeats don't count and multi pitch counts as one climb, so lets share :-)

My total is 165

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 21, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!
Great thread. I pulled out the guidebook for my morning toilet reading, and came to 193, including topropes and hangdogs. Need to make a trip back there and round it up to 200.

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By slim
Administrator
Mar 21, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
last time i counted, maybe 2 years ago, i was close to 500. i might be past it by now. i'm kind of ocd about trying to climb every route at every wall. luckily my wife and most my partners seem to enjoy it also.

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 21, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!
johnL wrote:
I might have to go back this weekend and go crazy on the 10's. I can't let camhead bee ahead of me.


You bastard!

Since I'm putting off work, I decided to go ahead and count the number of routes I've done at other crags, too. The New River Gorge is at 244, haven't done the RRG yet. This is kind of a fun time-waster.

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By JMo
From Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2012
vertebrae roof
Um....2? That's if we count leads w falls. Clean leads is 1. So I might win for the least climbs led. But this shall change, fast.

Hey not to hijack the thread but can I ask you creek- heads something? Building a creek rack - for some climbs I need 8 or so 2's and 3's. I noticed I can save A POUND in EACH of those sizes by using metolious power cams over camalots. I got triple bd's now, but was gonna round out in those sizes w the lighter metolious cams. Only thing is, they have less range. The 8 is a bit smaller than the BD 3. So my question is has anyone gone this route? Will metolious 8's fit nicely on the rattly hands of, let's say, super crack? Can metolious 7's stand in effectively for 2's on the glorious hands of generic? Cause if they fit ok as the coversion chart in the bloom guide suggests, why not save the #'s? Especially since I already got the BD triples for everywhere else???

Again, sorry for the diversion. Thought this crew could help....

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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Mar 21, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
JMo...... Two is a great start. As for a rack..... Start a new thread!!!! You will get better response :-)

Obviously we got some IC addicts here..... 500 routes.... Wow!!!! I hope to break 200 this year.

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By Joe Huggins
From Grand Junction
Mar 21, 2012
mmmm....tree
Just 1. But, that was the first time anyone placed a Camalot at IC- we had the prototypes; quite a variety of design tweaks. I spent the next day under my VW bus, splicing a stopper into the broken throttle cable, while Kyle, Alison and Charlie climbed Elephant Man. Haven't been back in the ensuing 26 years.

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By camhead
From Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 21, 2012
You stay away from mah pig!
JMo wrote:
Um....2? That's if we count leads w falls. Clean leads is 1. So I might win for the least climbs led. But this shall change, fast. Hey not to hijack the thread but can I ask you creek- heads something? Building a creek rack - for some climbs I need 8 or so 2's and 3's. I noticed I can save A POUND in EACH of those sizes by using metolious power cams over camalots. I got triple bd's now, but was gonna round out in those sizes w the lighter metolious cams. Only thing is, they have less range. The 8 is a bit smaller than the BD 3. So my question is has anyone gone this route? Will metolious 8's fit nicely on the rattly hands of, let's say, super crack? Can metolious 7's stand in effectively for 2's on the glorious hands of generic? Cause if they fit ok as the coversion chart in the bloom guide suggests, why not save the #'s? Especially since I already got the BD triples for everywhere else??? Again, sorry for the diversion. Thought this crew could help....


The big issue is that Metolius and BD camalots do not directly correlate. This is because BD, with their double axle, has a greater range, and because Metoilius has for a long time erred on the side of slightly smaller cam angle, which decreases range but adds holding power.

In practical terms, this means that often it will take two Metolius cams to cover the range of one BD. For your example of Generic Crack, some of its thinner spots might take green Metoilius, while some of its wider spots will take blue Metolius, but gold camalots could work for both (it's been years since I've done GC, so the sizes it requires might be off).

BD, though heavier, will thus have advantages for, say, onsights at your limit, because you will have fewer sizes of cams to grab and fire in while your gripped, and it's less likely that you'll pull one of the wrong size. Metolius might be better for projects where you have the gear wired, since you'll know exactly what you need, and they will be lighter as well.

But in reality, it just comes down to what you are most comfortable using.

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By fat cow
From Salinas, CA
Mar 21, 2012
perfect seam
Joe Huggins wrote:
I spent the next day under my VW bus, splicing a stopper into the broken throttle cable.


damn i want skills like that, cars these days are a lot of funny business though, so it probably wouldn't do any good

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By JMo
From Tucson, AZ
Mar 21, 2012
vertebrae roof
Camhead- makes sense & helps, thanks!

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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Mar 21, 2012
Dug out the guide, checked the notes... 95 for me.

The only other place I keep track is Joshua Tree, where I'm sitting at 405.

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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Mar 21, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
I wonder who has the most IC routes under his/her belt???

Alf????

Any other guesses????

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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Mar 21, 2012
El Chorro
I've never understood how people are able to remember individual routes. I probably climbed less than 100 routes in IC but I really don't remember but a handful of them. The good ones stand out, but the rest just blur together...

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By Aaron Martinuzzi
Mar 21, 2012
end of the day in the black canyon.
Not a very astronomical number, and unlikely to increase, but I managed 47 routes over 12 climbing days. Kinda figured it would be fewer -- cool.

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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Mar 21, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
Ryan....... I do not remember the routes but have them marked in my book :-)

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By Bob Dobalina
Mar 21, 2012
Damn, I never thought to write them all down! I would guess maybe 150-200 over the last 17 years? Honestly, the climbs there all start to feel the same after a while... which is good.

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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Mar 21, 2012
JMo wrote:
Um....2? That's if we count leads w falls. Clean leads is 1. So I might win for the least climbs led. But this shall change, fast. Hey not to hijack the thread but can I ask you creek- heads something? Building a creek rack - for some climbs I need 8 or so 2's and 3's. I noticed I can save A POUND in EACH of those sizes by using metolious power cams over camalots. I got triple bd's now, but was gonna round out in those sizes w the lighter metolious cams. Only thing is, they have less range. The 8 is a bit smaller than the BD 3. So my question is has anyone gone this route? Will metolious 8's fit nicely on the rattly hands of, let's say, super crack? Can metolious 7's stand in effectively for 2's on the glorious hands of generic? Cause if they fit ok as the coversion chart in the bloom guide suggests, why not save the #'s? Especially since I already got the BD triples for everywhere else??? Again, sorry for the diversion. Thought this crew could help....


A mix of brands is ideal; gives you options and helps to fill in the gaps between BD sizes. The classic example is a #2 Friend or a Black Metolius to fill in the Green-Red gap for BDs. Also, if you have triples, that is a great start, since your partner(s) ought to be contributing to the cam count as well. Few people have octuples on their own.

Also, a pound of cam-weight really isn't a big real. Get a lighter, skinnier rope, and trade out your Carhartts for something a bit lighter, and that will more than make up for the cam weight. I never really though that rack weight was a big deal at the Creek, unless you are leading a 150 foot fist crack at the Meat Walls. I actually think that you usually are carrying a lighter rack at the creek than at most other trad areas. You usually know about what you will need, so you don't need to take much in the way of extra gear. Carrying 6 red camalots, 4 gold camalots, and two draws for the anchor weighs a lot less than the standard full trad rack including a wide selection of cams, nuts, lots of long slings, etc.

I'll need to work on my count later today. Have we decided that hangdogs and TRs count? You don't need to have sent the route, just to have experienced it?

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By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Mar 21, 2012
caughtinside wrote:
The only other place I keep track is Joshua Tree, where I'm sitting at 405.


I've heard some say that the threshold for being a local at J-Tree is 1000.

I'm not sure that I can count that high.

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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Mar 21, 2012
Jon Moen wrote:
I've heard some say that the threshold for being a local at J-Tree is 1000. I'm not sure that I can count that high.


That is the game, yes, and that's what prompted me to look back at what I'd done and start keeping track. I don't know if 1000 is realistic for me, but it's a fun game to play some of the time. Keeps you searching for new routes.

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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Mar 22, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
I wonder what the threshold for IC is????
At Jtree I am way low, but it is also so far away.....

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By PTZ
From Chicago/Colorado
Mar 22, 2012
Where? Wouldn't you like to know. You have to buy me a beer, then I will tell you.
Indian Creek ruined my chances of being a hand model that is for sure.

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By MorganH
Mar 22, 2012
Mia Tucholke wrote:
Just for fun......... Looked through the IC guidebook last night and decided to count the number of routes I have done there, and of course I couldn't help but wonder how many routes the average (and the not so average) IC climber has done. Repeats don't count and multi pitch counts as one climb, so lets share :-) My total is 165


Does the stuff up in Castle Valley and off the river road count? If so, I'm at 140. If not, I'm closer to 100.

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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Mar 22, 2012
yeah yeah, don't be coy JLP, we know you keep track.

How much ya bench?

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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Mar 22, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
Larry..... I agree
Morgan..... Only climbs at the creek
PTZ....... I know, my hands have perma-scars

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By Princess Mia
From Vail
Mar 22, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
And don't forget the Bridger Jack towers and six shooters. They count as IC. Done all but King of Pain. Vision Quest this year :-)

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By grk10vq
Administrator
Mar 22, 2012
. . .
Mia Tucholke wrote:
I wonder who has the most IC routes under his/her belt??? Alf???? Any other guesses????

D. Bloom?

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