For Desert Rats Only
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a.k.a. Stairway to heaven. a.k.a. Jimmy's Chimney
An epic will ensue. The first pitch can be climbed on the left or right side of a bulge in the cliff. We climbed the right side b/c you approach that side first on the trail, but i would recommend climbing the left side. We rapped the left side and the rock looked better. Either way the first pitch is 5.9 to easy 5.10 and not the reason you are there. The second pitch follows the left side of the bulge up a great left facing corner (5.10) with a finger crack that fades away. Make an exciting exit move from the corner to the face on the right. Finish the pitch on some fun face climbing (also 5.10). Two pins for pro along the way (small stuff needed for the corner). I believe we linked this and the next easy pitch (5.7) to a small alcove below the beckoning chimney. Let the work begin. From here you look up into a bombay chimney. You can get gear in the first 50' but after that it's 100' of (5.11) squirming. It took me 3 hours to lead the the 150' chimney pitch - I think i cried a little. After the chimney there is a short (50') layback crack to the anchors (5.10).
An obvious line up the right side of the third tombstone. 3 long double-rope rappels will get you down.
The route follows the left side of the obvious shadows on the third tombstone (right of photo Id# 105922426). Start in the shadow at the bottom trending right across the face to the base of the large shadow/chimney in the upper half of the cliff.
you can get a few pieces in the first 50-60' of the 4th pitch after that there are drilled angles every 10-20' of difficult chimneying.
|Comments on For Desert Rats Only
|By andrew kulmatiski|
From: logan, ut
Feb 10, 2009
so has anyone else done this route? Its a great outing and the easiest free route up the cirque.
Mar 4, 2010
isnt the offwidth a gem. i not only wimpered but threw up as well. jimmy dunn drilled those pins on lead in stance. wrap your mind around that. i had a hard time unclipping them when i followed him up it. he would get knee bars, lean out with drill and hammer in hand, bang the drill for about a minute, then throw a chicken wing in for a rest. it went like that for hours. "leave your purse at home" is easier, and protects a bit easier.