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Lost Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baptist on the Rampage 
Blades of Steel 
Come and Get Your Love 
Crack a Lo Lo 
Drop Dead 
Dutchmen, The 
Fear of the Right 
For A Rocker 
Fuson's Folly (aka Larry's Folly) 
Hand Crack 
Jack's Slap 
Last Rites 
Lost My Religion 
Made in the Shade 
OU Mountaineers 
Rap Bolters from Hell 
Slime of the Century 
Steep Show 
Thankful Arete 
Tied to the Whipping Post 
UnNamed 
Unsorted Routes:

For A Rocker 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Jordan Ramey on Jan 31, 2007
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Dan Schuerch near top of "For a Rocker". Marked b...

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  • This area is designated as Charon's Gardens Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The crux is definitely the start. Its probably 5.10 face or 5.10 undercling / liebacks. Really not bad, just boulder problemy. Start about 8' right of the corner crack and move up left to gain the crack. Have someone spot you. You gain a great stance and can plug in 2 cams to start off the crack.


    Location 

    SE corner of Lost Dome. Immediately right of Crack-a-lo-lo and around the corner. Start on the E. face and the crack will wind you around the corner. 2 bolt anchor at top (shared with Crack-a-lo-lo). Can double rap.


    Protection 

    Normal refuge trad (nothing bigger than 1 #3 camalot). Can do with all cams easily.



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    By Andy Chasteen
    From: Oklahoma City, OK
    Jan 28, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    The beginning is more of a mental crux than anything. Fairly casual climbing to the crack, just high off the ground. I found that a .4 or .5 works very well in the first finger slot once you get into the crack.....or maybe that was a yellow C3?
    Killer jams once you get a couple feet into the crack. Good route to learn cracks.

    By Jeremy Bauman
    From: Lakewood, CO
    Jun 30, 2011
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

    When we did this we continued past the belay and scrambled around to a big 5.6 crack (To the right of the crack there is some bolted route) and followed it to the Larry's Folly anchors where we met the other climbers of our group and were able to use both of our ropes to get down.