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For A Few Ankles More 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: M. Rangel, Mike Knarzer
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: manuel rangel on May 8, 2006

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MR going for the great edge on the lip; just befor...


Getting past the lip of the roof is very difficult; a tcu could be placed in the crack if necessary to help you feel better about clipping the bolt past the lip. Cranking over the roof is easier if a foot jam overhead is used.


Look for the obvious roof with a crack in it.


all bolts plus one tcu maybe.

Photos of For A Few Ankles More Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Manny casually chalks up at the crux of For A Few ...
Manny casually chalks up at the crux of For A Few ...
Rock Climbing Photo: At the crux of For A Few Ankles More on Spaghetti ...
At the crux of For A Few Ankles More on Spaghetti ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick at the lip.
Nick at the lip.

Comments on For A Few Ankles More Add Comment
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By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Feb 24, 2008

Anytime you use a footjam over your head it's hella cool (I think)... Therefore I neeeeed to try this route.
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 9, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Clipping the third bolt is a scary proposition, even with the fixed draw in place. There may be potential for a groundfall. That said I did not look for supplemental gear.

My solution to pulling the roof was more traditional. I'll have to go back to try the overhead footjam. A wild roof no matter how you pull it!
By Toby Wehler
From: Chicago, IL
Feb 8, 2015
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I placed a cam in one of the slots to make clipping the perma-draw more comfortable and then took out the cam. Probably easier than Submission and La Nariz just because the route is over once you complete the roof, but who knows ... it was certainly fun to do.
By Justin Headley
From: Tucson
Apr 3, 2016

The fixed draw has a few broken strands of wire on it. Perhaps it should be replaced with a chain?
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Apr 5, 2016

I tried to keep the fixed draw a bit less visible at the time. A chain would suffice but I will probably use the same fixed draw type. Thanks for the heads up.

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