Slab route right of One Eyed Jacks
8 or so bolts. Anchors
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 12, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
This route is located just right and around the corner from One-Eyed Jacks, and is one of the better technical crimp climbs at the grade in Red Rock- well worth doing.
edit: as of 2/11/11, this route is equipped with mussy hooks.
Jan 17, 2010
|By Andrew Yasso|
Mar 2, 2013
Fun route, unfortunately most of the bolts are currently coming out of the wall. The first bolt is fine, the second bolt is spinning with about .5 of an inch exposed behind the hanger, the next three or four bolts all have about a centimeter on the bottom half exposed. The top half of the hanger is still touching the wall in most cases, but they are far less than confidence inspiring. My partner weighted one and it didn't go anywhere, but wasn't psyched to be taking whippers on these.
It looks like the installer may have drilled the bolts at a downward angle and this may have been the reason why they are exposing themselves, however that is pure uneducated speculation on my part. I personally wouldn't be psyched to get on this again until the bolt situation is ratified, which is a shame because it is a good route. Just waiting for the education on how to replace and I would gladly put the time in...
Nov 19, 2013
This route seemed really easy for 11b. There was one slightly awkward bit getting off the starting overhang and established onto the face/slab and then one minor hard move in the middle. Other than that, it felt very easy.
With no prior knowledge, if someone had told me it was 11a or even 10d, I wouldn't have argued. One eyed jack seemed harder.
In any event, fun route.