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A Pilgrim's Progress T 
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Foops 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, John Rupley, FFA John Stannard (1967)
Page Views: 3,879
Submitted By: andrew kulmatiski on Feb 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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The first(?) complete ascent and first brothers as...
While public climbing is still legally and enforceably prohibited at Sky Top, you may climb LEGALLY at Sky Top as a guided client, since 2007. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Foops is certainly one of the top five classics of the Gunks. This route is not named after the fraternal order of paramedics as commonly thought, but rather by John Salathe's Swiss-accent version of 'oops'.

The route climbs the obvious splitter roof about 200' left of the crevice through which the Lemon Squeeze trail passes. This is no low-profile climb: be prepared for the cops to descend on you in a helicopter and abscond with your rack... but it's worth it!

The climbing is pretty easy up to the roof, then pull through the fantastic 6'? roof. I believe I recall placing Aliens to small Camalots in the roof crack. Pull through to a nice hold above the lip and gain a well-deserved stance above the lip. Now get outta there!


Protection 

No big stuff needed - #1 Camalot max as I recall.



Photos of Foops Slideshow Add Photo
KC just about to onsight Foops. Circa 1983
KC just about to onsight Foops. Circa 1983
FOOPS
FOOPS
Foops!  The crevice trail goes into the chimney just right of Foops.
Foops! The crevice trail goes into the chimney ju...
Cutting loose on Foops! Summer 1993
Cutting loose on Foops! Summer 1993
Comments on Foops Add Comment
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 23, 2010

My brother Paul reminded me of an article in the short-lived North American Climber with a title something like, "Rezucha brothers swing through Foops." Apparently we were the first ascent where someone led Foops and the other followed. And, we were brothers (still are!). The usual way to do Foops is for someone to lead to above the lip and then drop off. Someone else in the party then attempts to do the same. The problem with following it is that if you fall you swing out into space and have to be lowered to the ground. If you fall leading you swing back to the wall and get another shot.

A week or so before our ascent I had gotten it pretty wired out to the lip. Paul had never been on it. We were living together in Albany, attending SUNY Albany. I talked him through the crux moves over and over, making the usual hand motions. I figured I had it so wired I would lead it, and he would (hopefully) follow. Well, on the designated day, once again I got to the lip and couldn't finish. Paul went up to give it a shot. I was talking to someone and looked away. When I looked back, he was over the lip! I thought, "Oh shit! Now I have to follow it." I was totally gripped following, but I suppose I convinced myself that I really did have it wired to the lip. And I did, and the courage of a top rope enabled me to pull through onto the wall above. The 5.9 to the top felt quite hard due to the stress and exhaustion.

See photo... That's Paul belaying and me swinging, in 75.

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
May 24, 2010

It was a long time ago but I still remember it like it was yesterday...

Looking down I could hear Ivan working the moves under the roof and heard a slap and saw a puff of chalk float out, then saw the fingers inching out and onto the horizontal. A big swing of the feet, desperation in the eyes, some real struggling, and he made it.

After Ivan got to the belay, he asked me if I gave him any tension. (I didn't as I knew he would want to do it clean).

I said "No".

He said, "You bastard!".

By John Stannard
Jul 26, 2011

Don Morton, an astronomer at Princeton, followed the first free ascent on aid. We climbed the route around the third weekend in October of 67. It was so cold we had to wait under the ceiling till the rock had warmed up a bit. Not much sun there. As chance would have it Hallam Murray had been up for a hike to Skytop that morning and he had a camera. Nikon as I remember.