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Maiden Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fool's Rush T 
Illegitimate, The T 
Iron Maiden T 
Looking Backward T 
Maiden Heaven T 
Maiden Voyage T 
White Maiden's Walkaway T 
Z Crack, The T 
Zeno's Paradox T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fool's Rush 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 750'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Omar Conger, Barbara Lilley, and Don Rappolee, 1959
Page Views: 842
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Sep 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the ledge-y area above the first l...


Fool's Rush climbs a series of corners to the right of the Maiden Buttress. Follow the corner system over flakey and blocky rock to an overhang. Pass the overhang on the left and belay below another overhang. Turn the overhang on the right and continue up broken rock to a nice ledge on the right. Move up and left to join White Maiden's Walkaway for the final pitch.


Fool's Rush follows a corner system on the right side of the White Maiden Buttress.


Small nuts and cams to 3 inches. Numerous runners.

Photos of Fool's Rush Slideshow Add Photo
Approaching the "Fool's Rush" dihedral from "From Bad Traverse." Set up a belay at the tree about 20 above the climber. From here, it is 2 awesome pitches, then you join the last pitch of "White Maiden." Avoids the crowds on The Maiden approach to this climb.
Approaching the "Fool's Rush" dihedral f...
Pass the first large roof on the right, in a chimney.
BETA PHOTO: Pass the first large roof on the right, in a chimn...
A shot of the finishing dihedral, I stayed left of this on easier terrain but the route should go through the bush in the dihedral I think
BETA PHOTO: A shot of the finishing dihedral, I stayed left of...

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By Tradoholic
May 13, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Both the guide book and the OP description is a bit lacking. My version: Go up the easy gully passing the first large overhang in a notch to the right. Above it is a nice ledge. Continue in the nice right-facing dihedral for a bit and then exit left onto the face, past the next overhang. I think the proper way to finish is to continue in the right facing dihedral but I followed some easier terrain to the left, but right of the White Maiden's Walkway. I will post some pics.

By Ben Crowell
7 hours ago
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Excellent protection on every pitch, mostly small passive pieces. On the first pitch, there were a lot of blocks wedged into the gulley that could have been loose. There was some bushwhacking involved, and we found ourselves in a few awkward belays, including one where we got intimate with a young oak tree. In several cases we were unable to reach a desirable belay with a 60 meter rope. A 70 meter rope would have given us better options.