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Fool's Gold 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Don Brooks and Chris Syrjala
Page Views: 223
Submitted By: jdberndt on Apr 22, 2012
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Description 

This is a good alternative to approach the first anchor of the GM route if the bottom is wet. Varied climbing with an athletic finish. Start as for Heart of the Country on either side of the large detached flake (no pro). Sling the top of the flake and step right and up to 1/4" bolt. Runout 5.8 on small ledges to the base of the second detached flaked with rust-colored surface. Finally put in some good gear and shake out. Climb left side of flake with a couple of thin hand jams. Once at the top of flake, hand traverse 20ft right to the large ledge at the anchor for the GM route. Rating is height and lichen dependent.


Location 

Right of the Hatch and Left of the mossy third class ramp.


Protection 

Standard rack to thin hands and several long slings to reduce rope drag. Can place a 3.5-4" piece at the beginning of the first flake.



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By Douglas T
Jul 15, 2013

1/4" bolt chopped and replaced.