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The Country
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angora Grotto T,S 
Climax Control S 
Cream of the Country T 
Crowbar T,S 
Cunning Stunt S 
D is for Dictory T,S 
Fifth Force S 
Fool's Gold T 
Frank Presley S 
GM Route T 
Hairway to Stephen S 
Heart of the Country T 
Heironymous Bosch T 
Just say no to Frank Sinatra T 
Kite Flying Blind S 
Leave My Face Alone S 
Little Jupiter- Short Version S 
Mourning Star T 
Patrick's Flake T 
Phone Calls from the Dead T,S 
Phone Calls Full (Long Distance Phone Calls from the Dead) TR 
Right Ventricle T,S 
Savage Gardens T 
Scientific Americans T 
Spooner S 
SS Ultrabrutal T 
Steel Monkey T 
Total Seawash Calypso S 
Tunnel Vision S 
Wham S 
Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline S 
Wipe T 
Zoom T 

Fool's Gold 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Don Brooks and Chris Syrjala
Page Views: 350
Submitted By: jdberndt on Apr 22, 2012

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This is a good alternative to approach the first anchor of the GM route if the bottom is wet. Varied climbing with an athletic finish. Start as for Heart of the Country on either side of the large detached flake (no pro). Sling the top of the flake and step right and up to 1/4" bolt. Runout 5.8 on small ledges to the base of the second detached flaked with rust-colored surface. Finally put in some good gear and shake out. Climb left side of flake with a couple of thin hand jams. Once at the top of flake, hand traverse 20ft right to the large ledge at the anchor for the GM route. Rating is height and lichen dependent.


Right of the Hatch and Left of the mossy third class ramp.


Standard rack to thin hands and several long slings to reduce rope drag. Can place a 3.5-4" piece at the beginning of the first flake.

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By Douglas T
Jul 15, 2013

1/4" bolt chopped and replaced.

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