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The Country
Routes Sorted
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Angora Grotto 
Climax Control 
Cream of the Country 
Cunning Stunt 
D is for Dictory 
Fifth Force 
Fool's Gold 
Frank Presley 
GM Route 
Hairway to Stephen 
Heart of the Country 
Heironymous Bosch 
Just say no to Frank Sinatra 
Kite Flying Blind 
Leave My Face Alone 
Little Jupiter- Short Version 
Mourning Star 
Patrick's Flake 
Phone Calls from the Dead 
Right Ventricle 
Savage Gardens 
SS Ultrabrutal 
Steel Monkey 
Total Seawash Calypso 
Tunnel Vision 
Whipped Cream Over the Clothesline 

Fool's Gold 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Don Brooks and Chris Syrjala
Page Views: 223
Submitted By: jdberndt on Apr 22, 2012
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This is a good alternative to approach the first anchor of the GM route if the bottom is wet. Varied climbing with an athletic finish. Start as for Heart of the Country on either side of the large detached flake (no pro). Sling the top of the flake and step right and up to 1/4" bolt. Runout 5.8 on small ledges to the base of the second detached flaked with rust-colored surface. Finally put in some good gear and shake out. Climb left side of flake with a couple of thin hand jams. Once at the top of flake, hand traverse 20ft right to the large ledge at the anchor for the GM route. Rating is height and lichen dependent.


Right of the Hatch and Left of the mossy third class ramp.


Standard rack to thin hands and several long slings to reduce rope drag. Can place a 3.5-4" piece at the beginning of the first flake.

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By Douglas T
Jul 15, 2013

1/4" bolt chopped and replaced.