|Type:||Sport, 5 pitches, 450'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||D. Montgomery, 7-18-11|
|Season:||Sun AM, Shade PM|
|Submitted By:||Monty on Jul 18, 2011|
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|Comments on Fool's Gold||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By invisible ghost
Jul 19, 2011
|Good Job, D! I can't believe that arete went at 12+! Looked much, much harder!!|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 19, 2011
|Good Job, dude! I'm psyched to try this!|
From: boulder, co
Feb 9, 2015
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Awesome route! Dave's beta is right on. If you feel comfortable, you can simul the first two pitches and traverse. Combining the two upper pitches (I'd rate 5.10 and 5.10+) is the way to go. Draws are still hanging on the crux pitch, and they are in good shape. The route is easy to rappel.
The crux pitch has cleaned up nicely and is really two boulder problems separated by pumpy rest. Shorter climbers might find some of the moves a bit harder. Enjoy the swing out of the alcove after you send!
By 20 kN
Oct 12, 2015
Overall, aside from the first two pitches, I found the climbing to travel over rather chossy rock. Specifically, the 5.0, 5.10b and 5.11b pitches are a bit on the chossy side. Worst of all, there is a massive ledge at the base of the .12+ pitch, and it is completely covered in bird shit, which of course got all over me, my shoes, my rope, draws, etc.
I think the route has potential, but it needs a lot of trundling, cleaning, and deep scrubbing before it could legitimately receive three stars. The route just doesent get climbed enough for this to happen unfortunately. The intermediate climbing required to get to the .12d pitch isn't particularly interesting, although the .12+ pitch is pretty cool.
All in all, it's mostly just a bunch of approach pitches to reach a cool, overhanging, hard pitch at the top. I would call it a bit more of an "adventure sport route" rather than a traditional, well-traveled sport climb.