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 ADVANCED
Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Afterthought TR 
Anduril S,TR 
Art Imitates Life S 
Art of the Pissant S 
Big Kahuna S 
Black Rider S,TR 
Caradhras T 
Cirith Ungol T 
Dimrill Stair T 
Dwarrowdelf T 
Easy Rider S,TR 
Fangorn Crack T,TR 
Fool's Gold S 
Gandalf T 
Glamdring S 
Isengard S 
Karmic Relief S 
Khazaddum S 
Little Bruiser T 
Lord of the Rings S 
Marranon T,TR 
Merryanne TR 
Middle Finger TR 
Nameless Left of Dimrill Stair T,S 
Nameless Right of Shadowfax TR 
Nameless to the right of Fools Gold T,TR 
Orange Sunshine S 
Orc T 
Orthanc S 
Out on a Whim T 
Radagast T 
Risky Business T,S 
Rock Wrestling T 
Rocking the Dalai Lama S 
Room With A View T 
Sam I Am S 
Shadowfax T 
Shelob's Lair T 
Slice & Dice T 
Smeagol's Surprise T 
Strider TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Fool's Gold 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Art Messier 1999
Page Views: 1,369
Submitted By: Joseph Lascurain on Aug 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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quality route
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Description 

Fun reachy moves lead to easier climbing.


Location 

Located in the New Middle Earth (left side of Middle Earth). First route you come across when approaching this wall. When climbing you'll know you are on the right route when you see the pressed metal tab attached to one of the bolts that says "Fools Gold".


Protection 

3 bolts. Rap anchor.



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By Sean Haney
Dec 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Fun, balancy, side-pull-tastic. I tried climbing the dihedral to the right, and it goes at ~5.7. The crack looks great and takes plenty of gear, but the right side sounds hollow. The crack also runs out at the top, so I moved over to a bolt on fools gold. Would be a 3 star MG route if it was 3x as long. But it could be a good way to set up a TR on fools gold if you feel good about trusting the hollow sounding crack.