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Middle Earth
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Unsorted Routes:

Fool's Gold 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Art Messier 1999
Page Views: 1,284
Submitted By: Joseph Lascurain on Aug 20, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Description 

Fun reachy moves lead to easier climbing.


Location 

Located in the New Middle Earth (left side of Middle Earth). First route you come across when approaching this wall. When climbing you'll know you are on the right route when you see the pressed metal tab attached to one of the bolts that says "Fools Gold".


Protection 

3 bolts. Rap anchor.



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By Sean Haney
Dec 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Fun, balancy, side-pull-tastic. I tried climbing the dihedral to the right, and it goes at ~5.7. The crack looks great and takes plenty of gear, but the right side sounds hollow. The crack also runs out at the top, so I moved over to a bolt on fools gold. Would be a 3 star MG route if it was 3x as long. But it could be a good way to set up a TR on fools gold if you feel good about trusting the hollow sounding crack.