Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Motherlode Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Belleville TR 
Black Bart S 
Blasting Cap S 
Cap Gun T 
Dust in the Wind T 
Fire in the Hole S 
Fools Gold T 
Golden Gloves S 
Golden Nugget S 
Lodestone S 
Motherlode S 
Out of Our Mines S 
Psychedelic Sluice T 
Shantytown Swing S 
Wildrose S 

Fools Gold 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Rick Shull and Chris Miller, 1989
Page Views: 1,364
Submitted By: Dave Daly on Aug 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Fools Gold (5.6), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles


This often missed crack climb is actually fairly decent. Although the initial section below is a bit contrived, the upper moves on fairly steep rock make up for it. Enjoyable moves as the crack thins out near the top.


Fools Gold is located 10' right of Fire In The Hole and also signatured by a block 15' up from the start. Tread lightly around this block!


Pro to 1". Small nuts or green Alien helpful in the thin section of the crack. Chained anchors shared with Golden Nugget.

Photos of Fools Gold Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fool's Gold (with Variation) 5.6 Trad
BETA PHOTO: Fool's Gold (with Variation) 5.6 Trad

Comments on Fools Gold Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 6, 2012

Easy, crack protected face/jug climbing. Maybe one optional handjamb thrown in. Small mastercams and nuts were helpful. Saw placements for .75 and 2 camalot also, if needed to sew it up.
Easy way to TR the adjacent 10s.
By Dave Kos
Aug 18, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

The climbing is OK, and this climb would be a good little exercise for a new trad leader since there is plenty of pro and easy stances to place it.

(Be careful about being too confident after leading it though - it's pretty easy for a 5.6)

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!