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Albany Slabs
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Fool's For A Day T 
Gemini Dreamin' T 
Reelin' In the Fears T 
Standard and Poors T 
Tao of Dow, The T 

Fool's For A Day 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Gerry Lortie and Tim Kemple Jr. ' 95 ?
Page Views: 817
Submitted By: john strand on Jun 24, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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A good antidote to Reelin'. Straight up the main slab past 7 bolts, a bit run out to the first. Excellent climbing. See the COMMENTs for Beta on the differences between this and "Reelin' in the Fears".


Dead center on the main slab


just bolts, a double bolt anchor on top was apparently added sometime between 2008 and 2013.

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By burlap submariner
Jun 6, 2010

Dont let the protection grade scare you, there ARE multiple cruxes very well protected with very slighly run out easier climbing inbetween solid 3/8" bolts.
By Chris Graham
From: Bartlett, NH
Sep 21, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Did this one today, the thing doesn't let up. I would agree that there are several cruxes, but the one between the 6th and 7th bolts was the hardest. Pretty heady route, but a really great line.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 29, 2011

i gave this on to gerry for hit 30th Bday......Too bad he placed so many bolts
By twellman
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

John, what is the difference between this and Reeling', in terms of exact line? The new guide says they're basically the same, but Fools is what they named the retro'ed version. If they are indeed mostly the same, perhaps they should be combined into one route, including the history, to avoid confusion.
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 8, 2015

Ian and I gladly and eagerly clipped the seven bolts on Fools/Reelin', and the climbing is terrific. An awesome slab climb. Here's what I don't get — where did John place the pro on his first ascent? There is really nothing there. Yesterday, Ian led it first, and his constant refrain was, "That John Strand is crazy!" If you ask me, the 1981 version of the climb (pre-bolts) was mostly a pro-less ascent.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Aug 8, 2015

Originally..a couple of RP's in the seam, then up left to a pocket (sidways hex), then up to the bulge and over.

I really had trouble getting something in at the bulge, even a pin/RP.. Fell off downclimbing from there..ripping stuff and going to the hex
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Aug 9, 2015

The hex is still there, welded into a pocket, but there is no runner on it and no way to reach it.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 15, 2015

John Strand is crazy. Everyone knows that. It's charming, really. It also makes his routes way more fun to toprope. Another nutjob example is the direct finish to Western Lady on Cathedral. I have no idea how far you would fall from the pine-needle-ridden final slab moves to the woods, but there would probably be time enough for the belayer to go grab a coffee at Starbucks and then come back and yank down on the brake hand. Since John left, there haven't been any really crazy people around here. It's a shame, really....
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 15, 2015

Thanks peter....I'll take these routes to my grave
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Sep 29, 2015

You and Tommy set a standard that will probably never be surpassed. I mean, who thinks it's normal to describe a new route in terms of the total length of all the leader falls it took to finish it (Swinging Hips, Clean Sweep)? You were either before or after your time (not sure which).... [wink]

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