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 ADVANCED
Upper Mount Scott
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
ARC TR 
Arm Bar T 
Atomic Elbow Drop T 
Atomic Knee Drop T 
Baldielox Buldge T,S 
Down for the Count T 
Foolish T 
Foolish Behavior T 
Frankly Scarlet T,S 
Groove rat T 
Hern, Frank Thing T,TR 
Locomotive Breath T 
Mr. Green Slings T 
Pile Driver T 
Pile Driver Variation T,TR 
Roof Corner T 
Roof Crack T 
Sleeper, The T 
Spinning Back Kick T 
Toprope Route S,TR 
Two Trojans T 
unnamed off-width crack T 
Wendy's Salad Bar TR 
Wolfman's Route TR 
Yee Haw T 
Yee Haw Variation T,TR 

Foolish 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 965
Submitted By: Steve Marr on Nov 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (38)
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Just below the crux on Foolish.

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

One of the better climbs on Upper Mount Scott. Climb the stellar hand crack that splits the dihedral. The crack narrows at the top, and then ends about one third of the way up. From here move right and work up the face on small edges. The climbing is pretty positive, but the protection is negligible and deserves the R rating. Continue face climbing until you can work back to the left and top out using another thin crack. The crux is the transition between the two cracks. Fun, thoughtful route.

Location 

From the ledge at the start of The Sleeper, scramble down and around to the blocks below. Foolish climbs the hand crack in the corner with a dark water streak above it.

Protection 

Standard rack, small gear at the crux. Anchor off trees.


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By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Feb 25, 2008

While the R rating is absolutely warranted, seeing that a falling off the upper crack could land you on the deck. I really see the run out section as maybe 5.5 or even 5.6, with such good holds and such a positive crack. I would suggest, this is just not equal of a sustained 5.8R, if you get my drift.