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One of the better climbs on Upper Mount Scott. Climb the stellar hand crack that splits the dihedral. The crack narrows at the top, and then ends about one third of the way up. From here move right and work up the face on small edges. The climbing is pretty positive, but the protection is negligible and deserves the “R” rating. Continue face climbing until you can work back to the left and top out using another thin crack. The crux is the transition between the two cracks. Fun, thoughtful route.
From the ledge at the start of The Sleeper, scramble down and around to the blocks below. Foolish climbs the hand crack in the corner with a dark water streak above it.
Standard rack, small gear at the crux. Anchor off trees.
|By Craig Childre|
From: Lubbock, Texas
Feb 25, 2008
While the R rating is absolutely warranted, seeing that a falling off the upper crack could land you on the deck. I really see the run out section as maybe 5.5 or even 5.6, with such good holds and such a positive crack. I would suggest, this is just not equal of a sustained 5.8R, if you get my drift.