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BETA PHOTO: Shows foolish behavior and appoximate location of ...
Climb the crack and exit left to bolt then climb the face.
10 feet to the right of Foolish.
1st placement #1 Link-cam (estimated #1 BD), 2nd placement was a #2 BD, 3rd was a double placement of a #2 BDC3 and #1BDC3 (You can fit in a #.75 BD or possibly a #1 BD down around your waist in the last stance of the crack. 2-quickdraws for the 2 bolts, no anchors.
If water is running down the streak to the right of Top Rope Route then most likely, when you turn the lip, it is slopey, and can be seriously slick. Before you know it, you could be burning rubber and sandpapering fingertips all the way down to the top of that hand crack 35' down the wall!
Falling notes: While whipping off this route a few times, escaping relatively unscathed. I found that once the rapid descent started, that skidding my feet trying to keep my hands off the wall seemed to work best to avoid the road rashed tips.
By Andy Chasteen
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jan 28, 2008
Probably deserves an R rating for the runout at the top from the last bolt. I've seen a nasty whipper come off the top.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Sep 14, 2009
I would agree that this route whips like an R, but seeing that the deck is out of play, I gotta stay with PG-13.
By Brent Butcher
Sep 24, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The fall is fun and into nothing, so I probably wouldn't give it a R rating, just PG13.