Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Near Downs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Abridged Version, The T 
Belly of the Dragon T 
Fool of a Took T 
Ghostwriter S 
Right Wight T 
Straight Outta Mordor S 
There and Back Again T 
Thrain T,S 
Thror T,S 
Unknown 1 T,S 
Unknown 2 T 
West Rib T 
Unsorted Routes:

Fool of a Took 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Joel McKillop Chris Hirsch Anthony Schwartz
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,357
Submitted By: aschwartz on Nov 21, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Fool of a took


A super fun moderate that starts with some face climbing to a high bolt leading to a steep hand/fist crack. Follow the crack to its end at a ledge, step onto the face following a flake to a second bolt. Crystal pinch your way past more bolts to an exciting arete finish. You may want to sling the top horn for the follower to protect the final moves before the traverse to the anchors. Numerous cruxes and amazing exposure at the end.


Northwest ridge of the formation


single rack from a red c3 to a #3, 6 bolts, bolted rappel anchors, optional double length, single 70m.

Photos of Fool of a Took Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Henning Boldt on the final arete of Fool for a Too...
Henning Boldt on the final arete of Fool for a Too...
Rock Climbing Photo: Up on Fool of a Took. Awesome route!
Up on Fool of a Took. Awesome route!
Rock Climbing Photo: Fot
Rock Climbing Photo: Fool of a took
BETA PHOTO: Fool of a took

Comments on Fool of a Took Add Comment
Show which comments
By B. Climbin'
Jun 8, 2013
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Loved it! This line is sick! Great pro through the cracks and the bolt placements are spot on. Thanks for the super-fun route, guys! Keep up the good work!
By Wilson On The Drums
From: Woodbury, MN
Jul 11, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

sweet route. good right from the start going to the first bolt. 5.9+ seemed appropriate but that could be due to the fact that i suck at crack climbing but the route seemed to stay on top of you the whole time and didn't really let up until the very end. what ever grade this settles in at it is definitely worth getting on it.
By Tater Tot
From: Custer, SD
Jul 6, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great job you guys! I have heard people call this route everything from 5.8 to 5.10a. My opinion is that it is one of the park's best 5.9s.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!