Fool Me Twice
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BETA PHOTO: Route C is the line.
Fool Me Twice is an extension to Deceiver
that links up to The Brown Palace
. I thought it was a very enjoyable pitch.
1. Climb Deceiver
(5.10-ish) to its rappel anchors. An easier approach utilizes the first half of the first pitch of The Brown Palace
, at which point Deceiver
is followed (5.7).
2. Move right from the belay to a shallow, left-facing corner (3 bolts) and then use RPs (and/or an optional cam out right) to protect an easier stretch to a bulging headwall. Pull through the crux bulge protected by small cams and wires (5.11c), and then angle up right along a small, angling corner with tricky climbing (5.11, 4 more bolts -- the last two bolts are shared with The Brown Palace
Rappel twice from here, or continue to the top of the wall via The Brown Palace
begins near the left side of the main road-facing wall, and Fool Me Twice adds one pitch to that route.
Small cams to #0.75 Camalot, a few small wires to 0.5 inch, RPs, and about one dozen QDs. A couple long slings will be useful to manage rope drag. I doubled up on #0.4 Camalots at the crux moves -- not a bad idea given the slab below.