This is a great long sport route, probably one of the longest single pitch sport routes at the New, and it's only 5.9! The lower portion is the crux. Climb the face straight up to reach a short flake system. Follow this to the end and continue over small overhangs to the finish.
Start in the middle of the Kaymoor Slab.
13 bolts. If you really wanted to, you could supplement it with gear, but it's not at all necessary. No anchors at the top since a 70M rope would be needed to reach the ground. Anchors can be found by walking along the cliff top and using one of the other sets of anchors for the other routes here.
Buddy Price Moving on up Fool Effect 9-2010.
On Fool Effect (photo courtesy Mike Budd)
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Really enjoyed this climb. Great view the entire way up, and was actually a pretty relaxing journey considering it's only 5.9. The first ~10 feet were a bit confusing/hard for me, but the rest was pretty accurate to the grade. You can rap down or set an anchor off the bigger tree up top.
Highly recommend topping out and hanging for a bit if you have the time - the view is incredible. Take a walk along the trails to the top of Idol Point for an even better one.