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Kaymoor Slabs
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Fool Effect 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Tom and Sharon Clancey, Bob Cenk, Mark Van Cura 1990
Page Views: 2,473
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (55)
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Halfway up, shot really puts it in perspective.

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


This is a great long sport route, probably one of the longest single pitch sport routes at the New, and it's only 5.9! The lower portion is the crux. Climb the face straight up to reach a short flake system. Follow this to the end and continue over small overhangs to the finish.


Start in the middle of the Kaymoor Slab.


13 bolts. If you really wanted to, you could supplement it with gear, but it's not at all necessary. No anchors at the top since a 70M rope would be needed to reach the ground. Anchors can be found by walking along the cliff top and using one of the other sets of anchors for the other routes here.

Photos of Fool Effect Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Truly massive
Truly massive
Rock Climbing Photo: Panorama from the top
Panorama from the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Working hard!
Working hard!
Rock Climbing Photo: On Fool Effect (photo courtesy Mike Budd)
On Fool Effect (photo courtesy Mike Budd)
Rock Climbing Photo: Buddy Price Moving on up Fool Effect 9-2010.
Buddy Price Moving on up Fool Effect 9-2010.

Comments on Fool Effect Add Comment
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By aribtraryusername
13 hours ago

2nd bolt maybe too high--risk of hitting ledge if you blow it before 2nd, esp. if heavier than belayer. since bolts 1-2 are crux, if at limit take a yellow alien for horizontal in between. up higher, if you break R for the flake system too soon, you'll miss a bolt unless over 6' to reach back and clip. but can protect with orange metolius and grey alien behind the flake.

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