Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Coco Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adventure Guppies S 
Coco Puffs T 
Cocopuss S 
Fontanar de Rojo T 
Hidden Meaning TR 
Moon Where the Wind Blows S 
Ruta de Roja T 
Snagglepuss S 
Stupid Cat S 
Unsorted Routes:

Fontanar de Rojo 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Anytime
Page Views: 851
Submitted By: 46and2 on Apr 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Brian climbing the starting pillar feature of Font...

Description 

This route follows different crack systems to the top of the cliff. Ascend the right facing flake to the top of the pillar; then follow the obvious varnished corner (crux??) to its top; and then follow the left angling wide flare to the top (some thin gear). Crux would be the obvious varnished corner; but it looks more intimidating then it is; the jams are SUPER secure. The crux is great (2 Stars) while the rest would only be 1 star.


Location 

This route is 15 feet to the right of Stupid Cat at the obvious pillar feature. At the top, I recommend walking off as per Classic Corner of Calico since you'll be right on top of it.


Protection 

Bring a selection of gear including some thin crack pieces for the start and also the top. No anchors so walk off right or left.



Photos of Fontanar de Rojo Slideshow Add Photo
Perfect Hand Jams!
Perfect Hand Jams!
Reaching the top of the pillar feature before the varnished crack.
Reaching the top of the pillar feature before the ...
At the top of the varnished corner; climb through the annoying bush and up the left angling flare above (can't see in photo!!) Have Fun!!
At the top of the varnished corner; clim...
Brian just reaching the crux varnished corner; this part is the best section of the climb; too bad its not longer!!
Brian just reaching the crux varnished corner@SEMI...
Jared on TR and entering the fun part!!
Jared on TR and entering the fun part!!
Comments on Fontanar de Rojo Add Comment
Show which comments
By Zappatista
Apr 10, 2007

When I climbed this route, there were fixed slings and rings around boulders in a chimney about 80-100 feet up (red and blue). Was told by the F/Aers of the mixed variation on the face (Randy Marsh and Pier Locatelli) that they put them in as the topout seemed like more work than was worth if you're out cragging and hanging out in Calico just to do these routes. I topped out anyway and had fun, but if I went back, I'd rap.

By MN norske
From: Henderson
Apr 20, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great hand crack for maybe 15-20 feet. Only gear I used was .4, .75, and two 1 inch cams. After the hand crack there are still two slings in the chimney to rap down off. Top out if you want but it just seemed like a lot of work for crap climbing past where the slings were.