This route follows different crack systems to the top of the cliff. Ascend the right facing flake to the top of the pillar; then follow the obvious varnished corner (crux??) to its top; and then follow the left angling wide flare to the top (some thin gear). Crux would be the obvious varnished corner; but it looks more intimidating then it is; the jams are SUPER secure. The crux is great (2 Stars) while the rest would only be 1 star.
This route is 15 feet to the right of Stupid Cat at the obvious pillar feature. At the top, I recommend walking off as per Classic Corner of Calico since you'll be right on top of it.
Bring a selection of gear including some thin crack pieces for the start and also the top. No anchors so walk off right or left.
Perfect Hand Jams!
Reaching the top of the pillar feature before the ...
At the top of the varnished corner; clim...
Brian just reaching the crux varnished corner@SEMI...
Jared on TR and entering the fun part!!
Apr 10, 2007
When I climbed this route, there were fixed slings and rings around boulders in a chimney about 80-100 feet up (red and blue). Was told by the F/Aers of the mixed variation on the face (Randy Marsh and Pier Locatelli) that they put them in as the topout seemed like more work than was worth if you're out cragging and hanging out in Calico just to do these routes. I topped out anyway and had fun, but if I went back, I'd rap.
|By MN norske|
Apr 20, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Great hand crack for maybe 15-20 feet. Only gear I used was .4, .75, and two 1 inch cams. After the hand crack there are still two slings in the chimney to rap down off. Top out if you want but it just seemed like a lot of work for crap climbing past where the slings were.