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This is a beautiful multi-pitch line on the main wall. It starts near the end of a large ramp (that angles up left over the big cave), and finishes at the high point of VD wall. However, due to lack of protection on the upper pitches and a questionable walk-off, it may be best to climb only the first pitch and rappel to descend (as we did).
P1 – Work your way up to the ramp on thin edges and smears. The second bolt has no hanger; either skip it or hang a wired nut from the bolt and clip the wire. Take the ramp a little to the left, then up the headwall, following the bolt line. From the last bolt, angle up and right across the aggregate to a left-leaning flake. The flake takes you up to the first belay ledge and a chain anchor. 6 bolts, 70’
P2 – Climb the headwall directly above the anchor on nice sandstone, passing 3 bolts. There may be a possibility to set a gear anchor on the ledge. 30’
P3 – Climb the unprotected face over a series of “waves” on easy sandstone to the top of VD wall. Finish up and left in a crack and set a gear anchor at the horizontal. 80’ Exit to the southeast and follow the descent given in the description for VD wall.
To the right of the big cave in the center of VD wall, just left of the start of a big, left-leaning ramp.
9 bolts, bolted chain anchor, gear anchors
High on the first pitch.
Bob scopes out the second pitch.
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