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Test Pilots Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.8 Crack T 
Backdoor Man T,S 
Crimp and the Crush, The T,S 
Flakes of Bake T 
Flakes of Wrath (aka Arch Rival) T,S 
Focus T,S 
Gimme three steps... T,S 
Kennedy Space Port T 
Kosmonauts T,S 
Rocket Science T 
Space Monkey T,S 
Test Pilots S 
Weight and Balance Check T 
Z Crack T 


YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a R

Type:  Trad, Sport, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 1,170
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Oct 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Mary at the technical arete start


This mega-classic is another Doug Reed ground-up testpiece.

Climb amazing and crimpy face past 3 bolts and a gear placement to an intermediate anchor and lower off. 5.11 a/b.

Or, continue up and right for the technical and well protected crux move. Move slightly right then fire straight up (5.9 R) to the top. Belay off a very healthy juniper tree.


Located behind the Test Pilots Buttress, on the opposite wall, in the shady gulley. It gets late afternoon sun.

There are two lines here. Focus starts right of the tree.


4 bolts, small to medium camalots up to gold. Extra slings to rig an anchor off a bomber old Juniper tree.

Comments on Focus Add Comment
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By esingleton
Dec 22, 2014

So if you blow the mantle move and your belay isn't on point you can hit a rather thick but flexible tree branch on the way down. Great route! Fantastic crimping with an appropriate amount of spice.

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