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Test Pilots Buttress
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Weight and Balance Check 

Focus 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed
Season: spring, summer, fall
Page Views: 994
Submitted By: gneiss pirate on Oct 27, 2009
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Mary at the technical arete start
2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This mega-classic is another Doug Reed ground-up testpiece.

Climb amazing and crimpy face past 3 bolts and a gear placement to an intermediate anchor and lower off. 5.11 a/b.

Or, continue up and right for the technical and well protected crux move. Move slightly right then fire straight up (5.9 R) to the top. Belay off a very healthy juniper tree.


Location 

Located behind the Test Pilots Buttress, on the opposite wall, in the shady gulley. It gets late afternoon sun.

There are two lines here. Focus starts right of the tree.


Protection 

4 bolts, small to medium camalots up to gold. Extra slings to rig an anchor off a bomber old Juniper tree.



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