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River Rock - Upstream Crag
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FM a.k.a. F*%K Me T 

FM a.k.a. F*%K Me 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Ron Anderson, et al., March 1979
Page Views: 440
Submitted By: Colonel Mustard on Sep 24, 2012

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F*%K Me

Description 

A bouldery start leads to a hand crack and then a roof. The roof boasts good hand jams with sparse feet as well as a sloping jug to the left. The OW pod exiting the roof provides a further challenge but deep hand jams are there for those who reach. Otherwise, it's probably Fuck Me city, although some lieback beta might work at the lip....

Hero jamming through wide hands in an overhung crack begins after the rest ledge just over the roof. Exit via some jugs to the back set anchors, but watch out for the creaking flake in the crack towards the top!

The route will clean up with more traffic but everything that needs to be solid is, and protection is abundant.


Location 

The obvious, East facing hand crack with an offwidth pod above a roof in the North gully


Protection 

mostly hands up to a 4" Camalot, although larger 5"-6" pieces could be used. Fixe anchors.



Photos of FM a.k.a. F*%K Me Slideshow Add Photo
Past the Roof
Past the Roof
Mootard flipping off the climb during the first FRSTRA (First Running Shoe Top Rope Ascent)
Mootard flipping off the climb during the first FR...
Comments on FM a.k.a. F*%K Me Add Comment
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By Laine
From: Reno, NV
Jan 23, 2014

I always wondered who did the FA on this one. I led it in the early 2000's and came to the flake above the flaring wide hands only to discover some rotten webbing. I replaced it and rapped off. Never saw any bolted anchors. Maybe they were placed after 2001?

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 26, 2014

Yup, Ron Anderson claims 'er. Rated it 5.11c instead of what I thought was 5.10c? Dunno who placed the anchors or when.

By RDA
Feb 13, 2014
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

I never rated it 11 C,, i thought it might be 11. That was from distant memory of the fa in the late 70s..

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Feb 14, 2014

My apologies, you rated it the mysterious grade of onsight 5.11. Jackson is right though, this is in no way part of the 5.11 family. I onsighted this while shit faced. Then I top roped it clean in running shoes right after. Pretty sure that wouldn't have been the case on anything close to the grade you claim.

As a head's up, people nowadays usually rate something "5.11" if it is in the solid, harder end of the range. On this site, for instance, "5.11" is between 5.11b and 5.11c when rating a climb. Something to think about when trying to talk climbing in a way others will understand.

Your comments from Supertopo on the FA, for a historical perspective: "this is number 20, in the central upstream crag mentioned in the new North Tahoe Guidebook by John Jackson. At the time i was talking with John about the upcoming guide, i didnt remember finishing it as this was the first attempt in winter of 79. Having talked with a buddy the other day showing him the guide he did indeed remind me that we went back and settled the score. We rated it 5.11, possibly due to only having 1 #4 friend that never "looked good". What can i say,, our helitack pilot KahnHo, had given us some actual THAI-stick..Memories were uhhhhh cloudy back then...

small corner to three foot roof, into flaring OW then finally some deeps hands 5.11- if you will March 1979. He also reminded me we called it "f*ck me"...


edit: guide book rates it 5.10 hrmfff..;-) if you onsight it,, 11 is fare..if you do it in EBs one #4 friend and some large hexes ill buy ya a beer."

Edit: 5.4, Rong? Geeze, have a hissy fit why dontcha?