A fun pitch, but the lack of decent pro makes it a better toprope than a lead.
Start between Sea of Dreams and Soul On Ice at a V-shaped dihedral with an old bolt. Climb the corner with some nice stemming moves and angle right at the top to the anchor shared with Soul On Ice and Dry Ice.
Not much. An old bolt, and maybe some small RPs and small Aliens here and there. Best done as a toprope after climbing Sea of Dreams or Soul On Ice.
It's also possible to top-rope this route from the big tree atop Dreamscape and Sea of Dreams, but you'll have to belay from the top and lower your partner down and have them climb back up. A 70m rope isn't long enough to rap down to the start of Flying Vee from this tree.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 12, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
I'll go out on a limb and say that this route is ***. If it were cleaner, it would be classic as it climbs a unique feature for this part of the Canyon. The hardest moves are right off the deck and are bolt protected from the neighboring route - there's no way to avoid the bolts really, so clip' em if you lead this. I placed gear on TR for a future lead and would go so far to say that this would be a stiff R rated climb. It could probably stand to use a good scrubbing too.