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Trac II
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Baby Face 
Daily Dick Dose 
Flying Marcel 
Paleozoic 
Pumped Full of Semen 
Used Blade, The 
WPA 
Zulu Flex 

Flying Marcel 

Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A

   
Type:  Boulder, 25'
Consensus:  Hueco: V10-11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Fred Nicole
Page Views: 647
Submitted By: LeeAB on Mar 31, 2006
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Description 

Cool technical climbing on small holds requiring pretty good foot work and body position. Maybe V9 or so to get to the start of Babyface, then you just have to climb one of the best V7's in Hueco to finish. 17 moves, not power but not really enduro either. Would be classic I think if it did not start in a hole, really good movement.

From the start move left up to a good edge then right up to a higher edge. Haul your feet out from under the roof to near the start hold and cross your left over to an OK edge. Bump your right foot way out and float over to a faint edge with a good thumb, then bump up the "Fredrique Nicole Crimper" and bring your left into the thumb catch as a sidepull. Reach right and down to a bad edge in a horizontal seam and with a high right and low left foot sag slowly into a good 2 finger pocket sidepull just below. Hop your right foot around the corner and move your right hand around as well to a bad edge. Rock way up and over on your right foot so you are leaning off of your left hand in the pocket and reach up for the starting "jug" of Babyface. Match feet and slide your left hand around the corner to the shallow pinch that Babyface starts on. Step up into the stem/drop knee and climb Babyface to the top, it's significantly harder after the traverse.


Location 

Starts down and left of Babyface about 15 feet. From a low start in a hole, right hand on a good flake and left in a seam that is OK, legs down in the hole under the roof.


Protection 

Pads and spotter as you will probably spend some time falling off of Babyface if you don't flash the problem.



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