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Flying Machines 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type: Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Rick Leitner and Chris Alber, 1998
Page Views: 1,155
Submitted By: Peter Franzen on Jan 1, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Tope-rope on a variation we call "Rubber Machine",...

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Description 

Another customized and comfortized route on the Visor. Start on a slab below a bulging dihedral left of the center of the wall. The technical crux comes only a few moves from the start, but finishing on large holds up the bulging wall can produce a nice pump. A good lead for warming up for the harder routes nearby.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with rap bolts.



Photos of Flying Machines Slideshow Add Photo
Jim Garber cruising up the fun jug haul on Flying Machines.
Jim Garber cruising up the fun jug haul on Flying ...
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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

Yes_I was looking forward to the "technical crux" and my groping hands fell into some very unlikely and very large jugs, just where they are most convenient.... fun climbing at (now) an even standard (about 5.11a), but I kinda miss the chance to work out whatever the original moves were like.

By Jeff Lockyer
From: Canmore, AB
Sep 18, 2001

I agree with the last comment, it would be nice to see what this route was like a couple years ago. An enjoyable "comfortized" route, with nice jugs the whole way. The bottom may be more of a dyno-like sequence for shorter people, but from here haul away. Perhaps the grade is a little much, as stated before. But a good bit of fun.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Sep 24, 2001

Can we stop adding manufactured routes to the site? Publicity equals legitimacy.

By Michael Walker
From: Loveland, CO
Jul 30, 2002

Come on, Jon, get it together. The manufactured routes at Sport Park are an abomination, and Peter is just pointing that out.

Why don't you raz the first ascentionist for creating routes in the Boulder area that are SHAMEFUL!!!

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 29, 2004

Wow. Three star of the day? Wow.

This was the most chiseled and gouged out piece of shit at the sport pile.

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 29, 2004

Wow I meant Bomb, big time.

By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 19, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

A fun, overhanging jug haul; reminiscent of a gym route. Some dynos may be required, but the holds you're shooting for are really good. Keep moving and get to the top before the pump sets in.

By dan scales
From: Denver, CO
Aug 26, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Hard to rate this problem. It feels like a chopped gym route. If you can stick the top dyno it's really pretty easy, but you've got to hit aim well. All in all it's quite a bit of fun, but no way 12 climbing.