Flying Hawaiian is a great route on which to test yourself in a variety of techniques. It's not hard in the grade but it feels it. It will make you work for sure, testing your skills at crimping, footwork, steep overhangs, a techy dihedral, and finally a potentially scary mantel. The route climbs right up the middle of Waimea and tops out, being the easiest route on this section of the crag makes it somewhat of a right of passage and a gateway to the harder climbing on this legendary cliff.
You start on a technical "boulder problem" gaining a comfy ledge. Up a steep overhang to a jug gets you in to the curvy dihedral. Move carefully up the corner stemming with holds on the left wall and friction on the right wall. keep this up past a little run out and you are relived by a nice juggy rail and move up to a well earned rest ledge. Head up in to the last corner and mantel to the right. Scamper a bit up and left to clip the chains.
Right in the middle of the Waimea wall locate the beautiful, curvy corner. Start below.
9 bolts to chains with fixed biners. Stick clip 1st bolt.
This is without question the testpiece at the grade for Rumney. It is such a varied and well-defined line, with several cruxes that take both power and finesse and a willingness to go a little farther "out there" than on most climbs at or below the grade at this area. Flyin' Hawaiian definitely has a well-deserved aura about it.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jul 10, 2007
i climbed this one for what was maybe my 5th time the other day and it is always hard and always so fun... dont worry about its scary reputation, grab a solid belayer and give it hell... as scary as it is, its safe...
so i was talking to my friend recently,(friend you know who you are) about how i never want to get on this route becuase it frankly scares the crap out of me. but he eventually persuaded me enough to take a look at it here and after looking at the pictures i am getting deffinatly pumped for the route and i really want to try it next time. essepsialy since said friend has a hancoring for danger and has begun to give me a slight hancorin for it myself. a side question though.... i heard from someone that you can make a small trad placement at one point that makes the route alot less intimidating....is this true?
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Jan 10, 2008 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
You may be able to get some very small gear in the corner but I don't think it would help the fall, you would just get smacked into the corner instead of falling down and out of it. FYI- I've never fallen on this route but the top mantle move is also one you don't want to fall on or above.
thanks! i may be heading out there this sunday...so im really excited!
By tscupp From: Cincinnati, OH Feb 27, 2008 rating: 5.116c+23VIII-23E4 5c
I might be the only one who thinks this, but I think part of the intimidation of this route is the quality of the rests. At three different points you can basically chill out and think about what is ahead, unfortunately I think you're given too much time to ponder what a fall from the dihedral or top out may be like. Personally, it'd be less intimidating to just keep on climbing through the rests. This climb is just an adventure through and through.
On a side note, the first time I got on this route I was baffled by the move from the horizontal in the dihedral to the left angling rail (is it supposed to be a lunge?) So I backed off slightly to try to rest in the corner by stemming. Well somehow I got turned around and ended up resting no-hands facing outwards. If you feel like goofing off, try and find that rest because it gave a great view and was quite exhilarating even though it was solid.
By dbyte From: Carbondale, CO Mar 11, 2008 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
This is 1 of the best sport climbs I've ever done, anywhere, @ any grade. The aesthetic of the line, length, differing styles of the cruxes, topping out & clipping the chains between your feet all combine to form a truly unique climbing experience.
I think this is the best 5.11 in America. Have I been on all of them? No. Have I climbed everywhere? No. But until I find one better, for my money this is as good as the grade gets. Tremendous and exhilarating.
I did this route this weekend, and it was amazing! Probably the hardest but most fulfilling 11b I have done. The rests definitely give you a little too much time to look up and start worrying, but as you make the clips you'll find yourself saying, well that wasnt as bad as it looked like it would be.
I was a bit confused by the topout though. I've seen many people mention a mantel move to exit. There are two triangular-looking outcrops above the last bolt, and I used the lower one, throwing a heelhook over it then doing some awkward rock humping and straddling to get standing on top. Is this not the normal beta? I wish there were a picture of someone doing this move.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jul 12, 2009
Did this route for the second time today, and it was really fun. Definitely more of a mental game than a physical one, but there is just so much good climbing in this one line that you'd be at a loss if you missed out. So get on it!
Perhaps we should just agree on the fact that this route could quite possibly be the best 5.11 in America, and we should throw mad props at Tom for leading it ON GEAR.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Apr 18, 2010
There were pins in the corner and I am pretty sure the bottem had bolts, though perhaps less then now. .verry nice lead though and a super classic no doubt
By Colin R From: Ottawa, ON Apr 25, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a PG13
I was happy to onsight this thing. Probably my best onsight ever (I didn't want to have to do it again at the time). It's probably in the top 2 or 3 5.11's I have done. I can't think of any 5.11 that is better, only a couple that are as good. The other two are Thin Fingers (11a trad) at Index WA and Burning Down the Couch (11d sport) at Murrin Park in Squamish.
By Colin R From: Ottawa, ON Apr 25, 2010 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a PG13
I also think this route is undergraded slightly. There are some other 5.11+ routes at Rumney that I found easier than this. Maybe it was just the head factor but it felt really engaging...
By Tradoholic May 25, 2010 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
Would have been fours with out awkward ledge rest and awkward top out. The 25ft of dihedral are absolutely the best for the grade at Rumney. Not scary anywhere in my opinion except for the top out.
I have been climbing for 13 months and after reading all the comments about this route I'm very happy I actually did it as my first 5.11 ever outdoors. a friend mentioned the route to me as i was walking by it, and im like!! let's do it; I love this route from begging to end, every move, every hold, the hydro, everything, (maybe i was happy cuase i was doing well on a 5.11!!!) even the top out which is the scariest part of that climb; I took 2 big falls, but that didn't stop me from finishing this beauty. I hope next time I do this route, I send it clean.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jul 22, 2011
lots of folks get super spooked about falling in the corner... here is a video i found of the fall no one wants to take... its far but totally safe...
Hilarious. I have actually taken the fall shown in the video, from slightly higher even. The spookiness factor is definitely there, esp the few moments before actually pitching off. Safe fall, shakes out the cobwebs though! :)
Fun fact - the girl in the video that Lee posted is the same one hanging in the magazine picture from a few year's back.
What more is there to say about Flying Hawaiian? How hard it is to spell that damned second word?
I would suggest that the true crux of the route is actually the first move - whether you do the left or right variant, I doubt you're going to see anybody ground up without a stick clip for that one. Despite this, the dihedral has attracted (even amongst my friends, clearly) an aura of mystique that anybody familiar with stemming (bolted stemming, no less) will easily dispel. In other words - don't believe anything except the good rumors. While certainly in an exposed position, the stemming is merely an enjoyable exercise. I hope these words do not serve in any way to diminish your own enjoyment of the dihedral, or indeed the route itself! Lest it be said otherwise, I consider this to be amongst my favorite climbs. For some true power stemming at the grade, you might want to take a look at Coarse and Buggy in J Tree. Like Flying Hawaiian, the crux STILL isn't the stemming there.
The last move may be spooky, but aside from the potential to cheese-grate your right armpit, [warning, BETA alert] if you put aside your doubts and (perhaps) rapidly tiring forearms, you'll realize all you need to do is throw your right foot over the arete to have completed a truly magnificent Rumney classic. After hearing that it was first lead on gear, I am eager, too, to climb this in a more traditional style.
By Will Stat Oct 14, 2013 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
One of the best sport pitches I've done, and it actually felt more like a boulder problem into a trad route. I used a chimney/buttscum technique into a stem at the end of the dihedral and it was pretty casual. Those insisting this feels harder than 11b probably don't have very well-rounded skills. I hope the "runout" mentioned in the description is a joke because your feet barely ever make it above your last bolt!
Just curious—if you DO blow the mantle (or whatever the last move is), is it (a) a long but safe fall, or (b) a long fall where you might hit something?
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Jul 15, 2014
People are usually too scared to fall, so I have never seen anybody do it ;)
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh Jul 15, 2014
I have seen people fall everywhere on this route... The "bad" fall is scary but as long as your belayer is on their game it shouldn't be a big deal... this would be a very standard fall from a 5.11 slab route at most trad areas... if you think you might fall wear long pants so you can slip slide away :)