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Flying Frog 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rich Gottlieb - 1976
Page Views: 3,719
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Entering the layback corner...thanks to Paul for t...


A must-do! For most of its length, Flying Frog is delicate face climbing on crimpy holds with sparse but adequate pro. When you reach the top of this long expanse of beautiful black rock, you'll feel like you've done something special.

Climb the face past a small tree growing out of a crack (keep the tree to your right). Continue up the face, trending left, and on to a right-facing dihedral near the top. Climb the dihedral to finish on a ledge.

NOTE: If you're not ready to lead this one yet, Flying Frog can be toproped after leading Mescaline Daydream and rapping on double ropes.


Starts about 30' right of Mescaline Daydream on the upper trail. Rap from the anchors shared with Mescaline Daydream.


Plenty of small stuff -- nuts and doubles in the smaller cams. Bolted rap anchors up top.

Photos of Flying Frog Slideshow Add Photo
The lower section of The Frog...and yes it was as ...
The lower section of The Frog...and yes it was as ...
Georg scopes out possibilities for his next placem...
Georg scopes out possibilities for his next placem...

Comments on Flying Frog Add Comment
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By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 29, 2007

Fun face climbing to a short liebacking/hand jamming corner to finish. The technical crux is down low, moving through a shallow fingerlock pod, but leaders at their limit or those not used to actual jamming will likely find the crux in the final corner. Probably the best quality indidvidual pitch I've done in the Gorge.
From: The Briar Patch
Dec 13, 2008

One of the finest pitches of the grade that I have done in all of the SE...it's a long one and has a bit of everything favoring technical face climbing.
By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Dec 2, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

There is plenty of gear on this pitch. It simply eats passive gear.
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Everyone I have talked to said thing has really great gear, so I must have gotten off route. I had a good 25 to 35 feet run out before the tree.
By Stephen F
From: GA/CO
May 27, 2010

*Gear Beta - Spoiler* Stand up left past the small roof at half-way to a really good horizontal. Then, plug medium nuts and small cams up the broken vertical cracks past the pine growing from the face on your left. The gear is solid enough that I don't even sling the tree (reduces drag). A #4 C4 makes acheiving the dihedral more comfortable. Save a #.75 C4 for the top. Sometimes you have to do a little weed pulling to see the good placements on the upper face, but there is no need to risk a 50' to 70' fall on this beauty! However, despite my warnings to conserve down low and advice to double up on the TCU's, more than one of my friends has run out of (useful) gear on this route by not rationing a bit. This is a long pitch, generally accepting 12-15 placements, so take lots of slings. At least you can leave the 2" and 3" cams on the ground.
By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Jul 16, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

For some reason, I thought I needed a one and two for the dihedral. I didn't get a piece in till I was out of it. I also think I traversed too far right earlier in the climb. I didn't get any of that gear you were talking about. I guess that's why its fun though.
By Ryan Williams
From: London (sort of)
Jan 19, 2013

What is the stellar looking line about 40 feet to the climbers left of Flying Frog? It can be seen in this this picture. I'm sure it's been done. Is it Mescaline Daydream?
By Jeff Mekolites
From: HOTlanta, GA
Jan 19, 2013
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

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