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Primo Wall
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Flying Cowboys 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1990
Page Views: 2,186
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (27)
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Kevin setting up for the big move on Flying Cowboy...

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  • Description 

    Flying Cowboys is an interesting route, and the only 12d on the Primo Wall. The best way to describe this one is two tricky boulder problems separated by a huge rest on a ledge. If you can link the initial powerful throw for the lower crux, and follow this with tricky climbing into the mantle, then you can take a nap on the ledge before finishing the route. Don't be misled into thinking the climb is over though, some difficult moves still separate you from the anchors and the Redpoint. Two stars for the sweet moves, not three though because of the nap-ledge rest.

    Protection 

    6 bolts / two bolt & chains anchor.


    Comments on Flying Cowboys Add Comment
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    By willem
    Jun 9, 2003

    Don't get hustled onto the ledge. It was awkward getting back into the line. Just keep firing up!
    By chris deulen
    From: Merriam, Kansas
    Aug 7, 2004
    rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

    This would probably go at 12d or harder for anyone under 5'8", or not sick strong (as in a 13+ climber). I didn't have any problem getting back on after the ledge. You just have to "slink" around it and reach for the good side pull while using the poor undercling.
    By Jesse Ryan
    Aug 10, 2006
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    I felt 'Flying Cowboys' was harder via more bouldery moves than 'Sucking ...', I felt FC was 12d. Then again, on a cool crisp day, maybe not.
    By Jonathan Siegrist
    From: his truck
    May 19, 2009

    The first half of this climb freakin kicks ass! The mantle is f$%kin strenuous- or I was missing something perhaps. I'm 5'5 and this felt 12d for sure. I think it would be a better climb if you just simply mantled and then stood up and clipped the chains- the top half is fun but overall far worse quality (climbing and rock) than the bottom. Worth an effort for sure however- the bottom half is worthy of *** (3 stars), the top is *.
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    May 19, 2009

    I happen to agree with you, Jon. I would/could put an anchor on the ledge....
    By Luke Childers
    Aug 21, 2009
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    The bottom is great!!! The ledge mantel thing... not my thing and the last section never seemed to add anything that great to the line but I've not done the line since 2001 and plan to get a new 2009 opinion on the matter. Worth doing for sure!!
    By Bart Paull
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 31, 2009

    Yes Jonathan, you missed something. Just climb a bit left at the ledge level. You get a decent 3 finger crimp up high and left with your left, and your right hand rides the edge of the ledge. Right foot up on the hold you dyno to, and rock over comfortably. This flows nicely into the top section, allowing you to blow off the rest if you want. Personally, I think the top of this route is just as fun as the bottom with good moves making it not over 'til it's over. Now, if you directly mantle the ledge, that's just heinous.
    By Darren Mabe
    From: Flagstaff, AZ
    Feb 1, 2010

    You now have the option of escaping to anchors of Crying Flyboys after the mantle.
    By Jay Samuelson
    From: Denver CO
    Apr 28, 2011
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    I agree with Bart, I think the climbing above the ledge is just as fun as the bottom section, although the ledge does detract from this climb a bit. Still sat up there for a good five minutes before heading up though!
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 18, 2012

    This is a great route! Super fun moves down low, a cool dyno if you're short, a rad mantle which can be quite strenuous, and a finishing move that packs a punch. I don't agree with people saying that you should finish right after the mantle. I'm sure the top can be done different ways, but the way I'm doing it is super fun! Good matched right and left hand and a big toss up to a horrible sloper ledge. Give yourself 12d if you do it this way for sure....