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Flying Cocksman 

5.12c

   
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Type: Sport, 45 feet
Consensus: 5.12c [details]
FA: Mike Fitzgerald/Ben Boyd
Submitted By: BenClimbing on Jan 19, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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toast heel hooking the roof

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Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Fun moves through crazy features lead to a cruxy dihedral just before a 6 foot roof. After the roof, one more big crank is rewarded with easier climbing and nice exposure.


Location 

10 feet right of Spicy Crispy.


Protection 

6 bolts (all orange hangers) to metolius rap hangers. SPECIAL PRECAUTION: when cleaning the route, do not swing out from below the third bolt or you may have a close encounter with a large cactus! The first bolt can be cleaned from the ledge. (edit) It would appear that lightning has removed the large saguaro so this is not an issue any more.



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By BenClimbing
Jan 19, 2010

Also, a longer sling is advisable for the 4th bolt to reduce rope drag as the roof is rather large.

By Fitz
From: Tempe, Arizona
Dec 20, 2010

Great route with unique and exciting gymnastic movement!