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 ADVANCED
Tufa City
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Almighty, The 
Black Sunshine 
Calcite Cruiser 
Canned Heat 
Couples Fear Factor 
Dead Sea 
Flying Cocksman 
Fred's Route 
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Ground Affects 
John's Meat Market (aka: Fred's Line) 
Kryptic Curtain 
La Linea Negra 
Micro Burst 
Millenium Meltdown 
Natural, The 
Rain Day 
Renegade 
Sacrificial Pig 
Short and Stiff 
Solar Delirium 
Spicy Crispy 
Sun Burst 
TuFa king $:@%*~! 
Tufa the Soul 
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Tufa Yard Dash 
Tufa-one 
Via Ferrari 
Way 'Stead 

Flying Cocksman 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mike Fitzgerald/Ben Boyd
Page Views: 1,083
Submitted By: BenClimbing on Jan 19, 2010
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toast heel hooking the roof
Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Fun moves through crazy features lead to a cruxy dihedral just before a 6 foot roof. After the roof, one more big crank is rewarded with easier climbing and nice exposure.


Location 

10 feet right of Spicy Crispy.


Protection 

6 bolts (all orange hangers) to metolius rap hangers. SPECIAL PRECAUTION: when cleaning the route, do not swing out from below the third bolt or you may have a close encounter with a large cactus! The first bolt can be cleaned from the ledge. (edit) It would appear that lightning has removed the large saguaro so this is not an issue any more.



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By BenClimbing
Jan 19, 2010

Also, a longer sling is advisable for the 4th bolt to reduce rope drag as the roof is rather large.

By Fitz
From: Carbondale, CO
Dec 20, 2010

Great route with unique and exciting gymnastic movement!