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The Flying Buttress
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Flying Buttress T 
Flying Buttress Direct T 
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Flying Buttress Direct 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul Grey, David Johnson, 1966
Season: When it is not raining hard
Page Views: 2,889
Submitted By: Dpurf on Jan 18, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Tackling the lip pull on Flying Buttress Direct

Description 

Exhilarating climbing on large holds. Climb up the slab to the center of the roof. No protection until under the roof and it is off to the left. Get to the first big hold and do a blind placement of a #1 BD or was a #2. Sorry I can't remember. Now there is a little trick to getting established, but I am not giving that away. After that brute force will get to the top. Enjoy.
A side note when I first climb in Stanage, I did not understand the ratings. The guy(Patrick) I was climbing with told me on very climb we did there it was 5.8. After my on site of this I thought to myself the ratings here sure are stiff.


Location 

Look for a big roof, wait there are a lot of big roofs there. Just ask some one they will direct you.


Protection 

single set of cams and a set of nuts.



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The Flying Buttress Topo
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By rdlennon
From: New Hampshire
Sep 28, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The crucial cam is a #1 camalot. In American grading terms, this route is like a 5.5 slab to a 12-foot V1 to a 5.6 slab with a couple of slopey mantles. Not very sustained, but very excellent. The exposure can't be beat.

By Nick Russell
Administrator
From: Bristol, UK
Jun 3, 2013

I still laugh when I think back to missing that crucial cam placement. It would have been quite a nasty fall if I'd blown the moves above the roof.