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Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving 
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Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Don Mellor 1985
Page Views: 2,631
Submitted By: E thatcher on Jun 4, 2010
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In the 5.7 R section. It's fine; it's 15...

Description 

FDDD starts by climbing up the initial corner of Labatt-Ami, before cutting back left on good holds, until you are just shy of the arete. Small gear can be found at either end of the traverse and should be utilized while still being as extended as possible.

From the end of the traverse, make a couple hard, thin moves to a jug rest at the base of a thin crack. Protect in the crack with small nuts and face climb up to the crux, getting into a small left facing corner.

Once you've gained the corner follow the 5.7 jug haul to the top.

The gear on the 5.10 sections of this climb is small and decently spaced. I would not hesitate to call it PG 13. The 5.7 jug haul is unprotected for the last 15-20 feet and certainly R. The holds are, however, the definition of juggy.

There is a direct version that pulls a roof to the right of the mainline. It goes at 5.10d R, but can be easily TR'd off of the same anchors.


Location 

The extreme right side of the Upper Beer walls. The face between Frosted Mug and Labatt-Ami


Protection 

As much small gear as you have. I sunk a set of c3's and two black aliens and it was by no means laced up. Fixed anchors at the top, shared with Frosted Mug and Labatt-Ami



Photos of Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving Slideshow Add Photo
Converse entering the 5.7 finish.
Converse entering the 5.7 finish.
The route
The route
Alexa on FDDD. Photo by Adam Bofinger
Alexa on FDDD. Photo by Adam Bofinger
Converse low on the route
Converse low on the route
jaysen henderson at the base of the finger crack section
jaysen henderson at the base of the finger crack s...
The gear I used. Many other options available, all small stuff. There was a good spot for a #1 as well i chose to skip.
BETA PHOTO: The gear I used. Many other options available, all...
View looking up from the base, Labat-Ami on the right.
View looking up from the base, Labat-Ami on the ri...
gblauer working her way up the climb. Good friction makes the crux moves a little bit easier.  Small fingers help as well.
gblauer working her way up the climb. Good frictio...
Comments on Flying & Drinking and Drinking & Driving Add Comment
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By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jun 4, 2010

An awesome Picture of Guide Book author Jim Lawyer on this classic route:www.adirondackrock.com/gallery9.htm

If you see this, thanks for the beta at the base Jim, you're a walking guidebook + beta machine

By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Oct 1, 2010

One of the best .10a pitches in the Chapel Pond area.

By Greg Kuchyt
May 12, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

In my opinion, I don't know that I'd call this PG per se. It's one of those G/PG depending on how you feel about these things. It's not G in the sense that you can get gear at any time you want it, but it's not PG in the sense that you're moving more than body lengthish distances above pieces. I think the distance between the pieces at the hardest points is reasonable to be called G. I can understand the opinion of PG though.

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Sep 19, 2011

TR'd this yesterday and LOVED it, the delicate climbing wandering all over the face is great, plus, the amazing jug haul at the end. I think im going to plan on leading this one if i can get enough small gear together to make it safe.

By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
May 7, 2012

lead this yesterday, super safe if you bring doubles in the red and green c3 size and a small set of rp's.

By Tucker Roderick
Jun 20, 2013

Great moves on beautiful rock! I found that a single set of C3s was sufficient.