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Fly with the Falcon 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Marvin Webb & Steve Kerchner, 1985
Page Views: 3,147
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006
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upper half of the route!

Description 

Begin with some bouldery moves up through a low roof to an overhanging V-slot. The crux is pulling through this slot and into the crack above via some powerful moves (a good jam or two and body contortion help). Continue up the easier cracks above to a bolted anchor.


Protection 

Standard rack. A #3 Camalot is nice.



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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Jan 1, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Not sure where the #3 Camalot really comes into play unless you are placing it from the shelf, which I would see as creating some drag. I placed a green Alien in the crack above from the shelf and only used .3 Camalot-.75 Camalots. Either way, super good route.

By 426
Apr 13, 2008
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

I give 11b/c on onsight, but that's just cuz I pooted out well after the bulge. Wah! Prepare to hang on the whole way...powerful start; balancy and techy until just below anchors.

#3 Camalot is perfect thonker at the very end of the bulger, right b4 it turns fingers vert...

By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 9, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

I actually placed a #4 camalot as my first piece. Fits perfectly in the vertical slot just above the big leg swallowing shelf. Fun route. If only it were longer....

By cshuey77
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

#3 makes you feel warm and fuzzy. however if you place it your only going to complicate things.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 2, 2011

I agree with Josh that a #3 Camalot is nice on this route. I didn't find that it complicated things at all. Instead, it offered absolutely bomber pro right at the crux. Save some strength for the upper moves. Just when you think it's over, it's not over.