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 ADVANCED
The Shield
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Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man S 
Deep Prok S 
Fly on a Windshield T 
French Route T,S 
Prok T 
Real Gravy T 
Runamuck T 
Stranger Than Friction T 

Fly on a Windshield 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 603
Submitted By: ben bryan on Oct 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

This route is located just to the right of French Route. The route can be identified by the bolt located 10 feet above the overlap.

Protection 

A number 1 Camelot fits nicely into the overlap to prevent a ground fall. The only bolt is the one mentioned earlier. The route finishes at a two bolt anchor


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By boulderkeith
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 12, 2013

I haven't been here in years but my recollection is not that it is 40'. Are there new bolts not at the top of the dome?
By Doug Meneke
May 6, 2013

There is a horizontal flare down low, and nice nuggets up to the 1st bolt. Super thin smears to the overlap and double-bolts (50 feet total).

Good top rope spot for French Route (the 2 routes meet here). Bail after that or commit to 60+ runout of 5.7 with just 1 good piece of pro (there is more pro right at the top).
By Superclimber
Feb 8, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This route can be taken all the way to the top, but it's a little runout.

Find one sketchy placement before the first bolt, continue up 5.8ish face moves with ground fall potential to clip the bolt. Next trend up and left to the obvious ledge with the double bolted anchor. To continue to the top-clip one of the anchor bolts and run it out up and slightly left to the downward facing flake that protects with small gear. Use a long runner and again run it out this time trending slightly right to the overlap near the top. Follow the protectable low angle finger crack a short ways to the double bolted anchors.

A 60 Meter rope WILL NOT make it to the ground. I don't think a 70 will make it either. An easy option for descent is to have your second follow you all the way to the top in one pitch, then rap down at the News Wall anchors hidden in the alcove.
By Superclimber
Feb 9, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

In answer to boulderkeith. A second bolt was added to the existing bolt on the ledge shared with French Route creating a double bolted anchor that is in fact about 40 feet up. However, to get the full value of the climb I posted a descripion above that goes all the way to the top. It is kinda run out and I estimate it's about 150' if one follows the beta I posted above.
By Tommy G.
From: Killeen, Texas
Oct 5, 2014

You won't have any issues with the runout above if you were solid up to the first anchor. Easy, but somewhat interesting runout moves above. You can find a rap station about 15' right of the downward facing flake (place gear with a double length and traverse or go straight to them without gear)... you can rap with a 70m from here.

The height of the first bolt was intimidating, but the climbing to reach it is mercifully laid back. Cool flakes and jugs near the first bolt, followed by some semi-desperate crystal crunching. Worthwhile.