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> Fumin Canyon
> Eye Cave (Yan Jing Dong)
Fly Me to the Moon
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Eye Cave (Yan Jing Dong)
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Barbara (Ba Ba La) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bear and Penguin (Xiong Qi) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Fly Me to the Moon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lightning (Shan Dian) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mushroom Soup (Mo Gu Tang) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nina (Ni Na) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Noodle Roof (Mian Tiao Wu Yan) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Project 1 S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Project 2 S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Swallows Flight (Fei Yan) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Thunder (Lei Ming) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Womens Magazine (Nu Xing Za Zhi) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 550 ft (167 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley, and Wang Zhiming, May 2005 |
| Page Views: | 1,443 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Moseley on Mar 16, 2008 |
| Admins: | Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
This five-pitch route ascends the buttress immediately right (downstream) of Eye Cave. It is a route to climb, not rappel, so bring walking shoes and scramble over the ridge above the top anchor to trail. DESCENT: Follow the small trail on the ridge east to the pavilion on the top of the mountain, then down through the forest to the River Cave and around the slope on old trail back to base of climb. See Eye Cave BETA PHOTO for access and route location. NOTE: Pitches 4 and 5 can be combined, but watch rope drag.
Pitch 1-5.7, 12 bolts to ledge. Metolius anchors on wall at back of ledge. 47 m.
Pitch 2-5.9, 13 bolts to exposed belay below large tree. 42 m.
Pitch 3-5.8, 7 bolts up and left to small ledge with Metolius anchors. 33 m.
Pitch 4-5.5, 2 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. 23 m.
Pitch 5-5.7, 3 bolts through roof, then up and right to Metolius anchors. 20 m.
Pitch 1-5.7, 12 bolts to ledge. Metolius anchors on wall at back of ledge. 47 m.
Pitch 2-5.9, 13 bolts to exposed belay below large tree. 42 m.
Pitch 3-5.8, 7 bolts up and left to small ledge with Metolius anchors. 33 m.
Pitch 4-5.5, 2 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. 23 m.
Pitch 5-5.7, 3 bolts through roof, then up and right to Metolius anchors. 20 m.
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