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Right Wall
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Fly Away Roof 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kevin Worrall & Sean Shannon
Page Views: 424
Submitted By: SCherry on Feb 2, 2011
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Description 

Classic line that takes the obvious weakness through the steep roof feature that caps the right hand side of the "Right Wall".

Pitch 1: 10a. Take the left line of bolts off the belay (the right line is the first pitch of "Lucky Stars"). This is the same as the first pitch of "Up Stream" but goes to a belay a little higher. Negotiate some choss that leads onto a clean slab after bolt 2 and right of a grassy, plant filled corner. The wall turns more vertical just below a small roof feature on the left. Climb up past the right end of the roof and gain a small right facing corner with bolts on the left arete (you will notice a small ledge on top of the roof with anchors to the left of the corner feature - this is the belay for "Up Stream"). Climb up this to a 2 bolt belay (quick links and bolts painted white) just below an obvious right trending seam under a small roof band where the wall turns vertical. 60 feet.

Pitch 2: 11d. Negotiate the right trending seam (crux) and up into blocky terrain to the right of a right facing corner. This pitch has a few cruxy sections followed by rests. Belay on a large ledge just below the obvious overhang that caps the wall. 80 feet.

Pitch 3: The Fly Away Roof, 11d. Slab climb up and right through some amazing "orange grip tape" rock, then back left on a flake which you mantle and reach the obvious undercling crack that forms the weakness through the roof. Cop a rest here then traverse the undercling crack right to a small right facing corner in the steep panel. Bust the sequential crux up through the overhanging panel and up onto a ledge with a two bolt belay. Belay here or continue on easy ground to an anchor located on the left side of the large boulder at the top of the wall (another 25 feet). 80 feet to the boulder atop the wall.


Location 

Right hand side of the steep "Right Wall". Begins from the farthest right set of 4 anchors at the base of the wall. Just left of the route "White Arete".


Protection 

15 quick draws



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