Welcome to the west side of the Pinnacles. The cliffs are taller and the crowds much smaller. The flumes formation is a great cliff for the intermediate leader. You have well bolted sport routes on decent rock. The 8 routes range from 5.7 to 5.10 and make for a good days outing. Check out kibbles and bits, try linking it with Rebecca's Sailing for a fun long route or do it in two short pitches. The 5.8 overhang, makes and exciting finish.
If you are looking for a bit harder route, give Jumangi a try. It is a short route but has some commiting moves. Don't feel like leading it, just traverse over from the top of Bits and Pieces or tilting terrace and set up a top rope.
Another good route is Nipples and Knobs 5.10a-b, this route shares the first bolt with tilting terrace and then heads up and right through steep knobs. It is well protected route and contains a two bolt chained anchor.
Please see the Pinnacles guide book for a reference.
7 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Flumes Formation:
Cool Daze 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
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Latest Regional Forum Messages
From: San Jose, CA
Dec 12, 2010
According to Brad Young's excellent guidebook , there are five parts of this formation with established routes. Here are approach instructions to the NE side :
1. From the westside parking lot, take the Balconies Trail (NOT the North Wilderness Trail), from the far end of the Chaparral picnic area.
2. Turn left at the junction with the Juniper Canyon trail.
3. Cross about five footbridges. At the 'climber access' sign for the Destiny Wall ('Destiny' is another name for Dos Equis, 5.8 R), turn left and cross another footbridge.
4. Go straight, uphill towards the Balconies (turning right will take you to the Balconies Caves, Chockstone Dome, etc). There will be a few switchbacks on this trail.
5. At another climber access sign for Tilting Terrace, turn left and follow a climber's trail to the NE side of the Flumes.