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The Sno-Cone Cave
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Fluff Boy 

YDS: 5.13b/c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: X- ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Matt Samet, Ryan Sappenfield
Page Views: 1,993
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 5, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Description 

Fluff Boy climbs directly out the center of the Sno-Cone cave and features a hard boulder problem at the start (now avoided by going right and grabbing the footholds—meh) and a cruxy lip encounter. Fortunately, the holds are biggest where the route is steepest, making it much more do-able than it looks from below.

The "Cyclops" hold is natural, believe it or not. I just added some sika to keep it on there.

Protection 

10-12 quickdraws.


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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2001

Wow, it looks impossible yet it's only 5.13b?? I'll be right on it! NOT! ;-)
By Anonymous Coward
May 4, 2002

As of this last summer this thing is a 15 foot wide chalk streak, speckled with shiny black grease dots. I'm sure it was gorgeous at the time of the first ascent.
By Adam Holmes
Sep 16, 2002
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

This weekend I replaced the long velcro sling, which I assume must have been there for more than a few years, maybe since it's inception. It's about the same length and has velcro on it just like the old sling. I replaced the draw after hearing my friend describe falling and ripping through an old Petzl draw on Zulu. If that happened on Fluff Boy you would crater.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 14, 2004

Matt has one of the best eyes for lines I've ever seen.
By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Dec 12, 2013

Bobbi Bensman made the first female ascent in July 1994, making her the third American woman to redpoint 5.13c.

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