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Routes in Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
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Bee Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Black Wall Traverse V2 5+ |
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Boss Man, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chips Block T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Edge of Night T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Ending Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Floyd T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Glory Days S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Half Ascent T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Lost in the Sespe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Mrs. Murphy's Rusty Old Packard T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Pine to Pine T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pipe Cleaner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Roadside Cracks T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tree Root T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Wadka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Wasp/The Sting, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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White Spider, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jauregui, et al. |
| Page Views: | 1,282 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Alex Bury on Jun 16, 2016 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure
Details
Check Caltrans ( roads.dot.ca.gov/) for up-to-date closure information.
Description
Floyd is an adventurous multi-pitch outing on the leftmost side of the wall. The technical crux is likely 20 feet off the ground, but the main challenge lies in the anchor building and route finding required to complete the route.
There is clearly an opportunity to rappel on the second pitch, but I haven't tried it (we walked off). Rapping might be less involved than the extra 150' of scrambling plus walk-off. Bring two ropes (or a 60m tag line) if you're planning on rapping, at least until you have word that a single line will get you down.
Also come prepared to leave slings at your stations.
Pitch 1: From the creek, climb up to a right leaning corner. Climb past this corner into the dihedrals above, until you gain a wide ledge. Construct a belay.
Pitch 2: Exit the ledge on the left side, and climb the airy slab above.
Either rap off the obvious large tree, or extend the pitch another 150' over easy terrain and walk off.
There is clearly an opportunity to rappel on the second pitch, but I haven't tried it (we walked off). Rapping might be less involved than the extra 150' of scrambling plus walk-off. Bring two ropes (or a 60m tag line) if you're planning on rapping, at least until you have word that a single line will get you down.
Also come prepared to leave slings at your stations.
Pitch 1: From the creek, climb up to a right leaning corner. Climb past this corner into the dihedrals above, until you gain a wide ledge. Construct a belay.
Pitch 2: Exit the ledge on the left side, and climb the airy slab above.
Either rap off the obvious large tree, or extend the pitch another 150' over easy terrain and walk off.
Photos
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