A relatively short power & compression problem with a crux toss up into the slopers of Flower Power. Sit start the bottomless arete in front of the tree on the left side of the boulder. Using a right hand sidepull/flake, a left hand pinch low on the arete, and a left heelhook, squeeze up to a triangular hold on the arete with your left hand. Now for the fun crux. Dyno right hand up to the slopers on the lip and hold the swing. Finish up Flower Power.
This problem is sitting directly across from the trail to the Upper Cliff, next to Locomotive Breath. Downclimb the slab opposite the trail.
So I got back on this rig today and was able to send it. I used different beta (thanks for finding it Lee) then what is described above. I toe-hooked out right and tossed up to the slopers with my right hand before going to the bad triangle hold with my left. Felt right around v5 for me this way. Has anyone else tried this beta?
By BDalhaus Administrator From: Manchester, NH Aug 27, 2013
I'll have to give it a try. Did you start with a toe hook before pulling off the ground?
I got on this yesterday and discovered the toehook beta as well. I think I like the left heel hook better than the toehook but I was tired and not able to stick with either method. It felt about the same grade either way but like I said I haven't sent. I think its crazy how many fun problems like this I walk by every time i'm at Pawtuckaway. I'll let you know what I think about the grade when I send.