Excellent climbing and a great intro to Zeke's wall. Quicker to dry than some of the other Zeke's routes, although there is a drowning risk on p3 during spring runoff. The (seasonally) clean water source at the base and the afternoon shade on the upper pitches make this a good hot weather option.
P1: **** 5.11- PD, 1x + gear, 30m
Climb the crack to a small roof with a bolt, then continue up intermittent cracks and knobs to a 2-ring anchor. The section above the bolt is intimidating, but accepts excellent gear every 8 feet or so if you can stay calm enough to place it. Save a #4.5 Camalot (or new style #5) to protect the final teetery move.
P2: *** 5.10, gear, 28m
Continue straight up cracks and chickenheads to a ledge with a chain anchor.
P3: 5.10-, 5x + minor gear, 20m
The "unfortunate" pitch. Harder when it's running at 300 CFM, but luckily this only seems to happen during peak snowmelt. From the P2 chains, scramble R to a bolt (the only one visible from the chains), then follow bolts and some greasiness to a comfortable bolted anchor.
P4: *** 5.10, gear, 25m
The dihedral. A touch easier than P2, but keep your wits about you.
P5: **** 5.10-, gear, 20m
Short chimney to giant inverted staircase, with excellent protection throughout. Lead this one, it's a hoot.
Rappel the route with a single 60m rope. When rapping the 4th pitch, be sure to pull the R side of your rope to reduce the likelihood of getting it stuck on the belay flake after the end pops through the rings.
Just R of Hanna Deanna (an incredible wet-start 5.11+ splitter through chickenheads) and just L of a prominent waterfall. The waterfall offers a clean drinking water source except during spring runoff, as well as some great rainbows as you climb P2.
- Thin cams and small nuts (a blue #6 HB offset is nice to have).
- Double cams from 1/2" to 2" (yellow #2 TCU to gold #2 Camalot).
- Single cams from 3.5" to 4.5" (old style #3.5 and #4.5 Camalot, or new style #4 and #5 Camalot).
- Belay seat suggested, as there are few good ledges. Parties of 3 may wish to have the last person link pitches 1&2, to reduce dangle time.
BETA PHOTO: Foreshortened view of the first 2 pitches of Flow....
Erik Neumann on the FFA of the crux first pitch, s...
View from the chimney on P5, taken while cleaning ...
May 2, 2014
Anybody climb this recently? Looks like a fun route, wondering how clean it is.
|By Eric Hirst|
May 4, 2014
Hi Kerwin -- I haven't heard of anyone going up there for a little while, so it may have developed some cruft in spots. I know Morgan H. said that P1 of Mortal Coil was starting to green up again. You should be fine, though -- the cruxes are also the driest and sunniest parts, so they should be OK even if there is some moss or moisture on P3 or the base of P1. Have fun, and PM me if you want a Magic Brush to give things a once-over when you're up there.
May 6, 2014
Thanks for the Beta Eric, I will definitely be checking this out after we get some sun to dry it out.