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Excellent climbing and a great intro to Zeke's wall. Quicker to dry than some of the other Zeke's routes, although there is a drowning risk on p3 during spring runoff. The (seasonally) clean water source at the base and the afternoon shade on the upper pitches make this a good hot weather option.
P1: **** 5.11- PD, 1x + gear, 30m
Climb the crack to a small roof with a bolt, then continue up intermittent cracks and knobs to a 2-ring anchor. The section above the bolt is intimidating, but accepts excellent gear every 8 feet or so if you can stay calm enough to place it. Save a #4.5 Camalot (or new style #5) to protect the final teetery move.
P2: *** 5.10, gear, 28m
Continue straight up cracks and chickenheads to a ledge with a chain anchor.
P3: 5.10-, 5x + minor gear, 20m
The "unfortunate" pitch. Harder when it's running at 300 CFM, but luckily this only seems to happen during peak snowmelt. From the P2 chains, scramble R to a bolt (the only one visible from the chains), then follow bolts and some greasiness to a comfortable bolted anchor.
P4: *** 5.10, gear, 25m
The dihedral. A touch easier than P2, but keep your wits about you.
P5: **** 5.10-, gear, 20m
Short chimney to giant inverted staircase, with excellent protection throughout. Lead this one, it's a hoot.
Rappel the route with a single 60m rope. When rapping the 4th pitch, be sure to pull the R side of your rope to reduce the likelihood of getting it stuck on the belay flake after the end pops through the rings.
Just R of Hanna Deanna (an incredible wet-start 5.11+ splitter through chickenheads) and just L of a prominent waterfall. The waterfall offers a clean drinking water source except during spring runoff, as well as some great rainbows as you climb P2.
- Thin cams and small nuts (a blue #6 HB offset is nice to have).
- Double cams from 1/2" to 2" (yellow #2 TCU to gold #2 Camalot).
- Single cams from 3.5" to 4.5" (old style #3.5 and #4.5 Camalot, or new style #4 and #5 Camalot).
- Belay seat suggested, as there are few good ledges. Parties of 3 may wish to have the last person link pitches 1&2, to reduce dangle time.
Erik Neumann on the FFA of the crux first pitch, s...
Me, navigating the first pitch a week or two after...
View from the chimney on P5, taken while cleaning ...